Researched and Written By

Researched and Written By Aaron Saunders

Sunday, October 31, 2010

The Legend of the Mary Celeste

The sea has always been a cause for superstition among sailors.  The Vikings - widely regarded as brutal and efficient men - were terrified of the fog.  Other sailors were fearful of bodies of water like South America's Drake Passage - and rightly so.  Shifting weather conditions and heavy seas could quickly overtake the earliest ships.

In the days before internet and GPS positioning, and even before wireless telegraph technology, ships were essentially on their own for the duration of their voyage.  The only way anyone knew something out of the ordinary had happened was when the ship failed to show up at it's scheduled port.  Even then, it was not uncommon for ships to be delayed by weather days or even weeks. 

The most famous maritime mystery - aside from the RMS Titanic - is a ship that didn't sink at all. 

Built in 1861, the Mary Celeste was originally launched as the Amazon in Spencer's Island, Nova Scotia. A 282-gross-ton "brigante" (a ship with two masts, only one of which is square-rigged), she sailed a rather unremarkable career until running aground off Glace Bay, Nova Scotia in 1867.  She was salvaged and sold to her new owner, Mr. Richard Haines of New York, who repaired the ship at great expense and planned to utilise his new vessel on lucrative runs from New York to the Adriatic.  She was renamed Mary Celeste.

After several successful - and routine - years on this run, Mary Celeste docked in New York for the last time on November 5, 1872.  She was loaded with 1,701 barrels of alcohol worth about $35,000 alone.  The alcohol and remainder of the cargo were insured for $46,000 (roughly $756,000 US in 2010).  Once provisioning was complete, Mary Celeste set sail for Genoa.

Exactly one month later, on December 5, 1872, a helmsman aboard the ship Dei Gratia named John Johnson sighted a strange object through his spyglass: another vessel, sails slightly torn, listing but apparently still under sail.  Johnson was worried sufficiently to alert Second Officer John Wright, who then fetched Dei Gratia's Captain.

The decision was made to approach the ship and render whatever assistance might be needed.

As the Dei Gratia got closer, the three men on the bridge were shocked to discover the stricken ship was the Mary Celeste.  She had left New York two weeks earlier than the Dei Gratia, and should have been safely in Genoa by now.  More confusing was the fact that both ships were off the coast of Portugal, and Mary Celeste was still under full sail, on a track for the Strait of Gibraltar.

The men's concern didn't abate as they maneuvered their ship alongside.  Chief Mate Oliver Deveau boarded the Mary Celeste and found only a wet, sloppy mess of her decks.  There was a three-and-a-half feet of water in the hold, and only one pump was in working order.  But the ship was not sinking, and was still seaworthy.

She was also entirely abandoned. 

All of the ships papers, save the logbook, were missing.  The forehatch was open.  Several navigation instruments were missing, along with the ship's only lifeboat.  A long rope was found trailing the stern section of the ship, where the lifeboat would have been launched from.  One end was tied to the ship, while the other end was considerably frayed and floating in the water below the ship.

All traces of food were gone from the main cabin. 

The crew's personal effects were still there, as were the 1,701 barrels of alcohol, making an instance of piracy seem unlikely.  However, when Mary Celeste was towed to Genoa and unloaded, several of the barrels were found to be empty.

No one from the Mary Celeste - alive or otherwise - was ever found.

Since 1872, several theories have been proposed to explain the disappearance of the crew and how she came to be found still under sail off the coast of Portugal.  While some are fanciful, the most plausible explanations center around the barrels of alcohol in her hold.

Nine barrels were found to be empty.  Those nine barrels were made of red oak and not white oak like the rest of the cargo.  Red oak is more porous, and more likely to emit vapours.  Alcohol vapors emitted into a small, contained space - like a cargo hold - pose a considerable threat.  If the barrels were not securely tied down, they could rub up against each other, causing a spark.  This would cause the vapours in the hold to ignite.

The thing about alcohol vapor is that it burns at a relatively low temperature.  While it would produce a considerable bang - strong enough, perhaps, to blow the forepeak hatch open - it would not have had the power to burn anything, and would have fizzled out on its own. 

The initial explosion, however, may have been enough to convince the crew to abandon ship - even temporarily. 

The rope trailing near the lifeboat has been the source of another eerily plausible theory:  fearful the rest of her cargo would explode, yet unsure if it would (or how serious it would be), the crew boarded the lifeboat.  Since the Mary Celeste was still under full sail (and without time to correct that), the crew lashed a heavy rope from the ship to their lifeboat, allowing them to get away from the ship, but not be separated by it if the situation improved.

A storm in the area, however, would have been deadly for the occupants of the lifeboat.  While the much larger ship to which they were tied would have survived, it is possible the lifeboat was torn from the rope, either drifting to sea or spilling its occupants into the icy Atlantic Ocean.  It explains the rope and the frayed edge the crew of the Dei Gratia found.

While this remains the most widely accepted theory, no concrete evidence has - or likely will eve be - found concerning the disappearance of the crew of the Mary Celeste.

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Port Profile: Skagway, Alaska

Since tomorrow is Halloween, we've moved our regular Sunday "Port Profile" feature up a day to make way for some suitably scary tales tomorrow.  

 Skagway, Alaska's main street.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Nestled at the end of Lynn Canal - which itself is the deepest fjord in North America - lies Skagway, Alaska.  Skagway has been a staple of the Inside Passage cruise for years; in fact, many bygone ships have left their presence in Skagway, thanks to a rock face near the piers that has been spray-painted with the logos and names of the ships that have called there since the 1970's.

Passengers are attracted by the rich Gold Rush history of Skagway, as well as the famous White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad which transports passengers literally from their cruise ships up into the Canadian Yukon.

 White Pass & Yukon Railroad car with Holland America's
ms Zuiderdam in the background.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Skagway's origins can be traced back to 1887, when William "Billy" Moore purchased a plot of land at the mouth of the Skagway river.  Moore knew gold had been discovered in similar mountain ranges in South America and British Columbia, and was convinced it was a matter of time before gold would be discovered near his land.

His decision would pay off nine years later.

In 1896, as Moore had predicted, gold was discovered in the Yukon.  Immediately, a rush of eager prospectors descended on his land, and the town of Skagway was born.

Two years later, Skagway was home to roughly 8,000 full-time residents, with another thousand passing through the town each year.  By June of 1898, it had shot up to 10,000 residents and became the largest city in Alaska, virtually overnight. 

 The streets of Skagway: Largely unchanged since 1898.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

This sudden influx of gold-hungry miners was palpable.  Prices for goods and services were grossly inflated.  Con artists worked the streets with ease, sometimes ensnaring their victims the second they stepped off the steamboats.  Brothels were on every corner.  It was, according to a North West Mounted Policeman of the time, "little better than a hell on Earth."

Among the con men who descended upon Skagway was Jefferson Randolph Smith - better known by his alias and moniker, Soapy.  He'd acquired it down in Colorado, where he had done a steady business selling bars of soap - purportedly wrapped with varying sums of money - to curious onlookers.  Shills planted in the crowd would open the wrapped packages of soap, and, finding a sizable sum of money, enthusiastically stir the crowd into a frenzy.  Soapy, of course, would claim there was a $100 bill still wrapped in one of the bars of soap.

The good citizens of Denver bought as many as they could carry.

By the time Soapy Smith drifted north to Skagway, he had an impressive criminal past behind him.  He immediately set to the task of establishing control over Skagway upon his arrival in 1897.  Not only was the town's only Marshall paid off to look the other way, Soapy even established a fake telegraph office.  This looked just like a normal telegraph office and was staffed accordingly.  The only difference was, the wires never went out of the building.  Patrons could gamble while waiting to send their telegraph - thus becoming even more indebted to Soapy and his gang.

Things fell apart for Jefferson Randolph Smith on the night of July 8, 1898, when he was shot by a vigilante gang assembled on the wharf - exactly where cruise ships disembark tourists every year.

His grave can still be seen today.

While times may have changed, the overall size and feel of Skagway hasn't.  The town remains much as it was a hundred years ago (albeit in a modernized fashion).  While the railroad understandably remains a huge draw, a simple stroll through Skagway can be just as rewarding.  Sure, there's a Starbucks on one corner and a Diamonds International on the other, but the town still manages to retain a very Gold Rush feel that is hard to find anywhere else. 

Leaving Skagway & sailing down Lynn Canal.
Photo © Aaron Saunders 

Even itineraries that don't call directly in Skagway may offer passengers the opportunity to visit for the day.  Some lines, most notably certain Holland America Line sailings, call at the nearby town of Haines, Alaska.  Excursions are routinely offered from Haines to Skagway for the day.

Almost every major cruise line calls at Skagway on at least one of their itineraries.  Pay a visit to your favorite cruise line's website to determine if their Alaska cruises call at this fascinating town.

Friday, October 29, 2010

WWII Explosives Found Under Seattle's Pier 91

Seattle's Pier 91 - also known as Smith Cove - as seen
from the deck of Holland America's Rotterdam.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders

Seattle's KING 5 News has discovered that police and military divers have discovered World War II-era ammunition underneath the new Smith Cove Cruise Terminal, otherwise known as Pier 91.

The report indicates divers first discovered shell casings during a routine security sweep of the area underneath the pier in April of this year.  The casings were harmless.

Conducting additional dives in September - after vessels berthed at the terminal had been using their thrusters to maneuver in and out for months - yielded a potentially dangerous find.  Divers discovered live, highly explosive WWII-era ammunition, as well as 20 to 90 millimeter rounds. 

In two instances, Holland America Line's Zaandam and Volendam were berthed at the terminal when divers brought live rounds to the surface.

So how did the ammunition get there in the first place?  Smith Cove functioned as a naval pier during the Second World War, and in the course of loading and unloading, it was not considered uncommon to lose a certain amount of ammunition in the bay.  Generally speaking, rounds on the ocean floor are harmless - as long as they are not disturbed.

When a cruise ship ties up sixty years later, however, it uses extremely high-powered thrusters to maneuver itself against the pier, and not tugboats as would have been common in the 1940's.  The thrusters kick up a generous amount of sediment under the ocean floor, and while the Coast Guard and the Navy say there was never any risk to passengers, they concede it is a problem. 

As such, the Pentagon has tasked the Army, Navy and the Coast Guard with developing a plan to clean up the site under Pier 91.  The project is considered a top priority: only six months remain before the first ships begin calling at Smith Cove for the start of the 2011 Alaska season.

We'll keep you posted here at From the Deck Chair as we learn more about this story.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Photo of the Week - October 28

The northernmost coast of  Iceland.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Our Photo of the Week for this last week of October showcases the rugged and unique landscape of northern Iceland.

Taken shortly after leaving Akureyri, Iceland - a mere 100 kilometers from the Arctic Circle - the landscape of Iceland is deeply scored with ridges and a tree line that barely reaches one hundred feet in height.  

Even in August, there were still two large ice floes drifting nearby, but these underscore the relatively warm Icelandic climate.  In fact, Akureyri has been habitable year-round for hundreds of years thanks to a harbor that remains ice-free.

The incredible scenery that graces northern Iceland.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

As a cruise destination, Iceland is booming.  Calls to both Akureyri and Reykjavik have increased steadily over the past decade, to the point where both receive visits from cruise ships between May and September - an impressive statistic for an island that was once bypassed altogether.

Interested in cruising to Iceland?  Look for Northern Europe and Baltic itineraries operating in the summer months - some of the longer itineraries may include Iceland as a port of call.  Westbound Transatlantic crossings in August and September generally call on Icelandic ports as well, and may include more than one stop.  These itineraries usually sail from England to the United States or Canada.

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

NCL to Build Two New Ships for 2013, 2014

NCL's next-generation Freestyle-cruising ships, due in 2013 and 2014.
Photo-illustration courtesy of NCL.

Norwegian Cruise Line finally announced this week what had been rumored for months: they are indeed planning to build two new ships, due out in 2013 and 2014.

The as-yet unnamed ships will be constructed at Germany's Meyer-Werft shipyard and will weigh in at 143,500 GRT.  They will be capable of holding approximately 4,000 passengers and have a price tag of $1.2 billion for the pair.

Perhaps most revealing, these two new vessels will represent a new class of ship for NCL, and will more closely resemble an evolution of the highly popular Jewel Class and not the more recent Norwegian Epic.  These ships will be slightly smaller than Epic, and will hold less passengers.

The rendering of the proposed ships released by NCL shows a more streamlined profile.  Gone are the "crown" of suites above the bridge, and the two smallish funnels found on Epic have been replaced with a single, more traditional uptake.  

Also revealing is the fact that NCL went back to longtime partner Meyer Werft to construct this new class of ship.  The line's relationship with STX Europe, who built the Epic, was plagued with contractual disputes and scheduling issues that were topped off with a string of suspicious shipboard fires that still remain unsolved.

While no details of the ships amenities or interior features have been announced, it seems likely at least some of Epic's highly-rated entertainment and dining venues will find their way onto the new vessel.  Less likely to be aboard are the wavy staterooms found on Epic.  While the jury is still out on the unique curved stateroom walls - some passengers like them, while others feel the result is a more cramped stateroom - almost everyone is in agreement that the bathroom concept, with its open-air and almost see-through door layout, doesn't work.  Expect the concept to be heavily re-tooled or scrapped altogether.

NCL released more potential good news today with the revelation it has filed with the SEC for an IPO (initial public offering) of its shares - which would make NCL a publicly-traded company for the first time in the line's history.

For more information, be sure to visit the Norwegian Cruise Line website.

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

A Look Back at P&O


I Am A Passenger - Click to Watch
 Courtesy of British Pathé / P&O



The year is 1961: the Peninsular Oriental & Steam Navigation Company has just completed its purchase of the remaining assets of the Orient Line, paving the way for P&O Cruises as we know it today.

The line also found themselves saddled with an abundance of promotional footage shot aboard Orient Liners like Orcades that they were then able to use to promote themselves to prospective cruisers.

The result?  The twenty-minute long I Am a Passenger, viewable in its entirety on the British Pathé newsreel site.  The film offers an incredible look at what are now viewed as precursors to the modern cruise ship.  From shipboard activities to exterior shots racing along the ocean, to behind the scenes views of the bridge and engine room, the resulting video is a veritable time capsule of maritime and cruising history.  A good friend of mine sent this through to me, and I'm glad he did.

Do yourself a favor today: sit down with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, and spend twenty minutes watching this fascinating movie.  It will make you wistful for an era of cruising that has since departed, but also appreciate the technological wonder that is the modern cruise ship.

Monday, October 25, 2010

Four Small Ships Worth Watching

It's almost November, and in the world of cruising that means one thing: only a month remains until the launch of Royal Caribbean's Allure of the Seas, sister ship to the gargantuan Oasis of the Seas which was launched last December.

It also signals the start of near-endless media coverage about the ship, her accommodations, itineraries, performers - the works.  In other words, there's no need for us to report on her.

Instead, we're taking a different track here at From the Deck Chair by focusing on eight other ships that are worthy of your attention and cruise dollars.  This week, we highlight four small ships that are worth watching, and next week we'll follow up with four large ships. 

Some of the ships listed below may be new, while others may have been in a particular fleet for years.  In each case though, there is something unique and noteworthy that makes these vessels stand out among the rest.  There's something here for every taste, and every budget.

Silver Wind - Silversea Cruises

Silversea's elegant Silver Wind.
Note the new addition above the navigation bridge.
Photo courtesy of Silversea Cruises 

Built in 1995, this intimate, 296-passenger ship has been a favorite amongst Silversea passengers for years.  At just 514 feet long, Silver Wind is one of the smaller, more intimate ships in the fleet - which is saying a lot for a line that prides itself on its small-to-midsize ships.  

Silversea's goal is to exceed passenger expectations, and it does so through its high culinary standards, exemplary service, and its luxurious, well-appointed ships. 

 One of Silver Wind's fantastic, newly refurbished suites.
Photo courtesy of Silversea Cruises

In keeping with that theme, the line spent an entire month and millions of dollars upgrading and refurbishing the Silver Wind at the San Giorgio shipyard in Genoa, Italy.  Carpets were ripped out and replaced.  Chairs and furniture re-upholstered.  Staterooms revitalized.  Beds and bedding swapped out.  Onboard decor updated and modernized.

Perhaps most ambitiously, the ship was also fitted with a brand-new, 60-guest Observation Lounge, as well as a new Spa and Fitness Centre.  The new addition distinguished Silver Wind from her sister, Silver Cloud, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows that now grace the forward end of Deck 9.  Behind the scenes, a new glass elevator whisks passengers from Deck 8 to the new addition on Deck 9.

Accommodations were not overlooked either: four new Medallion Suites were added to Deck 8, a new Owner's Suite to Deck 7, and new Vista and Medallion Suites were added to Deck 7.

The result is a passenger favorite revitalized for a new decade of cruising.  If you like your ships yacht-like, elegant but not pretentious, Silver Wind is tough to beat.  The line hasn't stopped there, however: earlier this year, the larger Silver Whisper was revitalized, adding many features found on the newer Silver Spirit, including the hugely popular Black Rock outdoor dining option.

In this age of  "bigger-is-better", it's refreshing to see lines pay attention to the vessels that brought them their success to begin with.

Oceania Marina - Oceania Cruises

One of the few photographs of Oceania Marina, still under construction.
Photo courtesy of Oceania Cruises 

Due to set sail this coming January, Oceania Marina is notable for being the first newbuild for Oceania Cruises, a line built upon the ashes of the former Renaissance Cruises.  A line's first purpose-built ship is a big event, and Oceania is pulling out all the stops for Marina.

While the ship is still under construction, the initial interior renderings are impressive: the decor is a throwback to the glorious days of the original transatlantic liners, albeit in a 2010-style.  At 782 feet long and carrying just over 1,200 passengers, this is a ship that leans closer to being called "midsize" rather than small - but we've included her here because, up to this point, Oceania has been a small-ship line.

 A rendering of one of Marina's impressive suites.
Photo courtesy of Oceania Cruises

Despite the size and passenger increase, Marina's more subtle touches - from six different open seating dining venues to numerous intimate, clubby public spaces ensures the ship will appeal to those who love a smaller ship, while still remaining attractive to those who like their ships on the larger size.

The big head turner?  The bathrooms.  For a ship in the premium category, Marina offers many features that approach those found in the ultra-luxury category: granite bathrooms with separate tub, sink and shower areas.  If you've ever squeezed into the "white cylinder" offered on most mainstream lines, you're bound to appreciate the extra space.

Prinsendam - Holland America Line

ms Prinsendam, shown here in New York City.
Photo courtesy of Holland America Line 

A veritable blast from the past, Holland America's Prinsendam has had plenty of opportunities since her 1988 launch to garner a loyal following of passengers.  Originally built for Royal Viking Line as their Royal Viking Sun, Prinsendam is Holland America's "elegant explorer", and as such, routinely operates some of the line's best, most obscure and unique itineraries.

 Prinsendam's Explorer's Lounge.
Photo courtesy of Holland America Line

She's also been heavily modified and updated since her Royal Viking days, but largely for the better.  While a recent refit added additional balcony suites and altered her aft pool deck (and her sleek profile), Holland America has ensured Prinsendam still sparkles with a series of soft refits that have seen fixtures, furniture, public rooms and staterooms refitted and brought firmly into the new century.

She's a throwback to "the good 'ol days" of cruising - but in a modern, elegant and tasteful fashion.  On the mainstream front, it's tough to find a more classic experience than this ship.

 Le Boreal - Compagnie du Ponant

 Le Boreal at sea.
Photo courtesy of Compagnie du Ponant

If you're from North America, chances are you haven't heard of either Le Boreal or Compagnie du Ponant - and that's a shame. The French line has been trying hard to make significant inroads into the English-speaking market, and their newest vessel showcases that superbly.

Holding a maximum of 264 passengers, this "mega yacht" is remarkably striking with its sleek black hull and twin smokestacks.  Inside, the ship represents its modern, European roots with sleek, stylish and often minimalist decor.

Modern European decor graces Le Boreal's staterooms.
Photo courtesy of Compagnie du Ponant

Offering a slice of Europe at sea, what's perhaps most surprising about this ship is the wide variety of European itineraries she sails, and the price of admission: itineraries are some of the best outside of the ultra-luxury category, and price points are quite affordable for a ship her size.  The line states their prime objective when desiging Le Boreal was to create "a subtle blend of luxury, intimacy, and well-being" in a unique setting.  They seem to have achieved this: there is nothing else quite like this ship.

Intrigued?  Visit each of the above lines for more information on their respective ships.
Too small?  Stay tuned - next Monday we take a look at four large ships worth sailing.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Port Profile: Mazatlan, Mexico

 A monument near the cliff divers and Zona Dorada
in Mazatlan, Mexico.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

A staple of the seven-day Mexican Riviera run, Mazatlan, Mexico is conveniently situated north of Puerto Vallarta, and across the water from nearby Cabo San Lucas.  Unlike its resort-laden counterparts, however, Mazatlan has a rich history that dates back to its inception in 1531.

One of the excellent beaches in Mazatlan, off the Zona Dorada.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders 

During the intervening years, Mazatlan has grown from a small fishing village to a major metropolitan centre and a rich, diverse port of call for passengers on Mexican Riviera cruises departing from southern California.  One of the first sights passengers are likely to see of the city is the El Faro lighthouse, installed in 1879.  At first, the Paris-built lens didn't revolve, causing many seafarers to mistake the light for a star.  Interestingly, it remained that way for another twenty-six years until 1905 when a revolving one was put in place.  Tempted passengers can actually hike their way up to the top of El Faro for a tremendous view of the city - and the Pacific Ocean that surrounds it.

Mazatlan also has the distinction of being split geographically into two major sections: the Centro Historico (Old Town), and the newer Zona Dorada, also known as The Golden Zone.

The classic streets of Mazatlan's Centro Historico.
Photo © Aaron Saunders 

Centro Historico is a fascinating area of Mazatlan.  It is home to the hundred-year old Pacifico brewery, the Teatro Angela Peralta, and the breathtaking, century-old Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception.  If you want to see the history of Mazatlan - and arguably the real Mazatlan - go here.

 Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

If shopping is your thing, Zona Dorada might be more to you liking: everything from diamonds to hand-crafted pottery to Burger King can be found here.  It's commercial.  It's borderline tacky.  And tourists eat it up.  However, the area is home to some excellent beaches, and those in search of authentic, made-in-Mexico souvenirs won't be disappointed either.

 Zona Dorada.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

The cruise ship pier is located closer to Centro Historico, but taxis are readily available to whisk passengers over to Zona Dorada.  For a true Mazatlan adventure, take the open-air Pulmonia taxi's.  Resembling a souped-up golf cart, these nimble vehicles and their skilled drivers whip up and down side streets, in and out of traffic, in an experience that is hard to replicate outside of perhaps a New York taxi cab.  The story goes that when the open-air vehicles first arrived in the city almost forty years ago, regular cabby's tried to wean prospective passengers away by telling them they'd catch pneumonia.  The name stuck.  Today, they are one of the most popular ways to experience the city.

 One of the open-air Pulmonia's.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Currency and Language: Mexican Spanish is the official language, though English is widely spoken.  Knowing basic Mexican Spanish, though, will help your interactions with the locals, who sincerely appreciate the effort to learn their language.  It's beautiful - give it a try.  The official currency is the Peso, though US Dollars are accepted almost everywhere.

To learn more about Mazatlan, be sure to visit the Go Mazatlan website.

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Update: Celebrity Increases Compensation for Century Pax

Celebrity Century's October 13th sailing ground to a halt
after divers discovered damage to the rudders.
Photo courtesy of Celebrity Cruises

In the wake of widespread criticism over their handling of a rudder malfunction that left Celebrity Century unable to continue a 12-night Mediterranean voyage just days after it began, Celebrity Cruises announced yesterday that it was increasing compensation offered to affected passengers on the aborted sailing.

In addition to the original compensation - which included a full refund of the cruise itself, plus a twenty-five percent future cruise credit - the line now says it will compensate passengers, in full, for flights which were purchased on their own in order to get home.  Additionally, the line will also offer $100 per passenger to cover "additional costs" that passengers "may have incurred."

The about-face comes after the line came under fire from passengers and industry analysts alike for its handling of repatriation of guests on the affected sailing which departed Barcelona on October 13th.  Two days later, passengers were informed their cruise was canceled after divers in Villefranche, France discovered issues with the ship's dual rudders.

There is still no word on what those issues were, or when and how they were incurred.

According to passengers on several CruiseCritic threads, passengers and crew alike were caught in the crossfire as the line struggled to make decisions about what to do with so many guests.  While the situation was certainly out of the ordinary, this incident demonstrated the lack of any sort of contingency plan to deal with an unexpected, large-scale disembarkation.  

Instead, passengers seem to have been left largely to fend for themselves to make flight or hotel arrangements halfway around the world, with a time-change, language barrier, and massive local strikes in France in their way.  

Complicating matters?  Many passengers either lacked travel insurance, or had extreme difficulty contacting their North America-based travel agent.  Flights in and out of the region were going for a breathtaking premium, and many passengers opted for the 10-hour bus transfer back to Barcelona, hoping for better results out of Spain.

While the steps Celebrity has taken yesterday are laudable and will help to ease the financial burden felt by many of its stranded passengers, we can only hope the gesture isn't too little, too late.




Friday, October 22, 2010

Princess & Cunard to Travel Agents: Try Harder

According to an article published on the Travel Market Report website, Jan Swartz, Executive Vice President - Marketing & Sales for Cunard and Princess, states that cruise lines wouldn't have to spend so much time engaging in direct marketing practices like printed flyers and targeted emails if travel agents spent more time generating demand for their products.

A comment not likely to thrill most travel agents.

On the surface, Swartz is correct: if the burden of marketing and promoting cruises was placed on the shoulders of travel agents, lines wouldn't have to spend the amount of money they do reaching out to consumers via more traditional methods. 

The problem lies in the fact that travel agencies just aren't structured that way - nor should they be.

Very few travel resellers focus exclusively on cruises, which means not only do they have well over a dozen lines that need promoting, but the endless myriad of all-inclusive resorts, golf retreats, and airlines would have to be heavily promoted as well.  Naturally, each company wants its product to have top billing, which means you're now trying to get a travel agent to promote one of perhaps over a hundred different companies at any given time. 

It just doesn't work.

The article points out that in Swartz's conversations with travel agents, they admit most of their bookings come from a) existing clients or b) word of mouth referrals.  Swartz suggested a targeted marketing plan, developed and executed solely at the agency level, would work better.  Not for the agency, of course - for Cunard and Princess. 

In the end, the comments come off as unusually critical for the normally amiable Swartz.  To put the onus for marketing multi-billion-dollar companies on the shoulders of travel agencies who's profits don't approach anything near that level is strange at best - but it does speak to a larger problem.

How do you attract customers?  And how do you get them to keep booking with you?  Non-traditional marketing methods may be the answer.

Very few cruise lines utilize on-line and interactive resources like blogs, Twitter feeds and Facebook pages to their full potential.  With the exception of John Heald's fantastic blog as Carnival Cruise Line's Senior Cruise Director, most blogs put out by lines simply re-hash press releases.  Twitter feeds and Facebook accounts might offer a little more dimension, but these act mainly as another tool for viewing news and press releases.

How do you get someone to cruise with you?  First, you have to get them excited.  Once you have them excited, the rest falls into place.  It's very difficult on a printed flyer to get someone excited about a cruise - unless the price is astoundingly good.  Usually, there's a date, an itinerary, a ship, and a price.  Nothing else.  Compounding that is the fact that many flyers are simply out-of-date by the time they reach prospective cruisers.

Online methods offer a more immediate and information-rich approach. 

Is there more that can be done to create a better balance between travel agencies and cruise lines?  Of course.  As Swartz states, at the end of the day, it's all about filling the ships. 

Placing the onus on travel agents, however, might not be a step forward.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Photo of the Week - October 21

"Cruise Ship Alley" - Independence of the Seas
and Grandeur of the Seas docked in Cozumel, Mexico.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

There's no shortage of things to see and do in Cozumel, Mexico.  Located just a short ferry ride away from Playa del Carmen and the mainland, Cozumel serves as the gateway to the ancient Mayan ruins at Tulum as well as the modern-day resort and shopping mecca that is Cancun.

One of the greatest joys, however, is merely docking in Cozumel.  There can be as many as eight ships in port in any given time, docked alongside each other at three sets of piers.  Only in the Caribbean do passengers and cruise-enthusiasts get a chance to look at so many ships up close and personal.

Independence of the Seas & Grandeur of the Seas
tower over their passengers.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

This is one port you definitely want to be up early for: watching your ship tie up alongside an empty pier is one thing, but seeing a much larger vessel maneuver alongside yours - almost seemingly close enough to touch - is a one-of-a-kind experience that simply isn't replicated in other destinations.  Piers in places like Alaska are often subject to much higher tidal conditions, and ships tend to dock alongside a central pier in a row.  

Not so in Cozumel and many Caribbean ports.  Because of this, the pier area is often a hub of activity and can often be as interesting as the town itself.  It's also an excellent chance for passengers to scope out the competition.  On a visit in 2009, the Grandeur of the Seas felt like a large ship until the 1,112-foot long Independence of the Seas tied up next to us.  Four complete decks higher than us - not counting the funnel - the 2008-built ship made the venerable Grandeur feel like a tugboat in a bathtub.
Sun setting over the Caribbean Sea.
Photo © Aaron Saunders
Sunrise and sunset are particularly spectacular here, and out on deck is once again the place to be at departure time.  After a hard day of exploration - whether it was venturing all the way to Tulum or merely to Senior Frogs at the end of the pier - watching up to eight ships pull away one after another and sail into the sunset is a memorable experience passengers won't soon forget.

Independence of the Seas sailing on-time at 5:30pm
from Cozumel, Mexico.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

There really is nothing like the Caribbean.

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Disney Fantasy to Debut in April 2012

Disney's fourth ship: Disney Fantasy.
Illustration courtesy of Disney Cruise Line

It's official: starting today, passengers can officially book space on Disney Cruise Line's newest forthcoming addition: the 128,000 GRT Disney Fantasy

Setting sail on April 7, 2012, Disney Fantasy will spend her maiden season in the Caribbean, operating cruises round-trip out of Port Canaveral, Florida, near Orlando.  Sailing week-long alternating Eastern and Western Caribbean itineraries, the sister to the forthcoming Disney Dream will also call at Castaway Cay, Disney's very own private island in the Bahamas.  The island is notable not just for the vast array of activities present, but for also being the only private island in the industry that features a dock large enough to accommodate the cruise ship itself - meaning less time spent tendering ashore and more time relaxing on the beach.

Don't discount the new Disney Dream and Disney Fantasy just because Mickey Mouse is at the figurative helm; these are two of the most innovative and exciting ships setting sail in the next two years, and both feature a mind-blowing array of diversions for kids and adults alike.  For an in-depth look at Disney Dream - and to discover what to expect on her sister ship Disney Fantasy is all about - check out our extensive article we wrote back in March.

Curious?  Don't wait.  If you are at all interested in Disney Fantasy - particularly her introduction Caribbean season in April 2012 - book now.  While the line's growth may have been cautious (it's first vessels hit the water in 1998/99), there's one thing they've never had an issue with: filling their ships.  

For more information about Disney Fantasy's inaugural itineraries, pay a visit to the Disney Cruise Line website.

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Silversea Cuts Singles a Break

Silversea's Silver Spirit at sea.
Photo courtesy of Silversea.

If you've ever taken a cruise by yourself, chances are you are all too familiar with the dreaded "single supplement."  For the uninitiated, a single supplement is an additional fare charged to solo cruisers who want to occupy a cabin that would otherwise be meant for two passengers.  The additional fare can range from a few dollars to two hundred per-cent of the fare: the equivalent of paying for another passenger.

Which is why Silversea's announcement last week is such a boon for solo travelers looking for a luxury cruise that won't break the bank.  More than 20 sailings in 2011 have had their single supplement reduced to between ten and twenty five per cent - both of which can be combined with the line's Silver Savings, Free Air and $250 onboard credit offers.

So what's on offer?  Here's just a few of the voyages that are rolling out the red carpet to solo travelers.

Arabian Peninsula Voyage 2101 - Silver Wind, January 3, 2011.  Dubai to Dubai.  $5,058 including Free Air from select cities.

Caribbean Voyage 1109 - Silver Cloud, March 14, 2011.  Ft. Lauderdale to Ft. Lauderdale.  $4,422 including Free Air from select cities, and $250 Onboard Credit.

Far East Voyage 3109 - Silver Shadow, May 7, 2011.  Shanghai to Tokyo.  $7,398.  Our personal favorite. 

A typical Caribbean voyage on a mainstream cruise line can easily run double the price of the per person fare, particularly for balcony staterooms.  If you're going to pay more money to sail solo, you might as well have something to show for it.  Silversea's offer is a deal because it represents a considerable value: solo travelers get to enjoy the same fantastic service, ships, itineraries, and culinary delights at their attached counterparts without paying through the nose for it.

As someone who's cruised solo in the past, I know how difficult it can be to get a truly good deal on a voyage as a single passenger, which is why I applaud Silversea all the more for taking the initiative to offer these twenty voyages to solo travellers, and I can only hope other lines will follow suit and make a serious effort to court those who choose to travel on their own.

To learn more about the reduced single supplements on select 2011 sailings, visit Silversea's website for full details.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Update: Celebrity Century Rudder Issues

The saga of the Celebrity Century continues to play out on message boards like CruiseCritic. 

After being told their cruise was over just two days after departing due to (incredibly) - two broken rudders - it seems passengers have all gone separate ways.  Some have flown back home, while others have turned an aborted cruise into an unexpected land vacation.  Others still were able to secure replacement voyages on other ships, thereby salvaging their vacations. 

In all cases, it seems confusion was rampant, both about what to do and what Celebrity was prepared to offer.  Celebrity Century ended her voyage near the city of Nice, France - just about as expensive as European destinations get.  Complicating matters?  Strikes in France have shut down most modes of transportation, including the Eurostar.  Even Charles De Gaulle airport has stated it only has fuel to last a few more days - making connections through CDG a very unlikely possibility, and necessitating a ten-hour bus ride back to Barcelona for most passengers.

In short: a major headache for those with money to spend, and an absolute nightmare for those who hadn't imagined needing the kind of cash they'd need to shell out to get home.

However unfortunate for those passengers aboard the canceled sailing, this incident serves as a timely reminder for all cruisers.  While Celebrity seems to have provided phone and internet access for passengers to make arrangements, with two-thousand-plus people all vying for a crack at it, access was understandably scarce.

So what can you do to ensure you're ahead of the pack when something goes awry?  Below are a few helpful - and timely - tips.

Purchase Trip Interruption / Cancellation Insurance - While it's not a fail-safe by any means, having decent interruption and cancellation insurance will reimburse you for any expenses occurred when your trip hits the rocks.  But it's not immediate - in most cases, receipts have to be submitted in order to be reimbursed, meaning any expenses must be paid for up front - by you.  Which makes our next item all the more important.  Most of all, a good insurance company will work with you to make arrangements with the least financial impact.

Carry a Backup Credit Card - having a credit card with no balance on it (or at least one with some headroom) can save the day.  While hotels can be expensive, unexpected return flights - booked last minute - can be a nightmare.  Having a credit card for emergencies can remove that initial panic and allow you to get home, where you can deal with your insurance company for reimbursement.

Bring a Laptop or GSM-Enabled Phone - Sure, the cruise line made internet access free.  There's just one problem: the entire ship is jockeying for position on one of a dozen computer stations.  Chances are by the time you get your turn, the most affordable hotels and transportation options will be long gone.  So don't wait for that to happen: carrying a laptop with WiFi capabilities allows you to tap into any free access point, research flights, book hotels - all without queuing up.   Additionally, having a GSM-enabled phone allows you to make calls almost anywhere in the world - again without enduring long lineups.  Eliminating any unnecessary stress can be a huge lifesaver in situations like this, allowing you to get in touch with your travel agent or family and friends back home.

Know Your Airline - Work With Them - Take a look at who you booked your flights with.  Chances are they're part of an airline "alliance" - a group of airlines who code-share flights.  Star Alliance and OneWorld are the two largest alliances.  If you find yourself stranded in an area not served by the airline you originally booked your flights with, call up one of their partners.  It's a long shot, but if anyone will be able to help you out or cut you some slack, it's an airline within the same alliance as your original booking.  You'll still have to pay change fees, and you might even get hit with a fare difference increase, but it could be cheaper than booking new flights outright.

Get All the Facts - In Writing - Once you leave your ship, the cruise line no longer has any responsibility for you.  So make sure you get as much in writing as possible, and gather all the facts before setting off on your own.  Make sure you exhaust every avenue of assistance offered by the cruise line before taking matters into your own hands. 

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Port Profile: Tampa, Florida

Looking towards the Tampa Convention Centre in early morning.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

When most people think of taking a Caribbean cruise, the assumption is that they'll be sailing out of Fort Lauderdale or Miami, Florida's leading home ports.  But another city in the Sunshine State offers a wide array of departures without the congestion that plagues the two aforementioned ports: the beautiful city of Tampa.

First spotted by Spanish explorers in the early 1500's, Tampa has grown to be the 54th largest city in the United States and was called one of the best outdoor cities by Forbes magazine.  The town that was originally little more than a trading outpost upon incorporation in 1853 is now a bustling metropolitan area and a rapidly growing destination for cruisers looking for a warm getaway.

 Ease of Access: Grandeur of the Seas is visible
just beyond the Florida Aquarium, at right.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

From a cruiser's perspective, Tampa has a lot going for it: Tampa International Airport is a mere twenty minutes from the downtown area and the cruise terminals.  The downtown area itself boasts plenty of hotels, restaurants and attractions, such as the Florida Aquarium and historic Ybor City with its distinctively Cuban flair.  In the case of the Florida Aquarium, it is situated two minutes' walk from the cruise terminals and leads to the multitude of shops along Channelside Drive.

One of the many interesting - and bizarre - fish
on display at the Florida Aquarium.
Photo © Aaron Saunders 

We visited Tampa in January 2009 and were instantly impressed with the friendliness of this city.  Clean and relatively quiet compared to Miami and Ft. Lauderdale, Tampa possesses a more laid-back atmosphere.  Everything you could need seems to be within arm's reach.  In fact, other than to get from the airport to downtown, we never used a taxi at all, and even walked from our hotel to the cruise terminal.

All of this, coupled with an ever-increasing number of ships that call Tampa home during the winter, make this a Floridian port worth watching.

 Another Tampa attraction: the SS American Victory.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Currency and Language: The United States Dollar ($) is used, and other currencies are not commonly accepted.  English is spoken throughout.

How to Get There: Tampa International Airport hosts direct flights from most major US carriers and cities.  Air Canada and WestJet provide direct service from Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal and Halifax, while British Airways serves Europe via London Gatwick.  Taxis to the downtown area are readily available, and cost approximately $25.

 Metalwork sculptures line the waterfront.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Where to Stay: If you want to be within walking distance to the cruise terminals and stay in an excellent area of town, choose a hotel in the Channelside district.  Two notable properties are the Embassy Suites Tampa Convention Centre, and the Tampa Marriott Waterside.  While we're big fans of the Marriott, the Embassy Suites gets our vote for their spacious rooms and included breakfast buffet - a great way to start off your cruise.

 The Embassy Suites Tampa - Convention Centre.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

The Cruise Terminals: The Port of Tampa utilizes two terminals for departures from the city: Terminal 2 and Terminal 3.  Both berths are adjacent to each other, so there's no need to tromp around the city if you're leaving from one or the other.  For a detailed cruise ship schedule and port/berth information, be sure to visit the Port of Tampa's highly informative website.

To learn more about the city of Tampa, visit the Tampa Bay website.  (Fair warning: it's a good site, but it has some rather loud music & sound that you might want to have your speakers off for if you're viewing this at the office.  Not that we here at From the Deck Chair ever do that.  No.  Certainly not...)

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Last Chance Mexico aboard Mariner of the Seas

Mariner of the Seas at anchor in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders
If you're looking to experience the Mexican Riviera aboard Mariner of the Seas - or any Royal Caribbean ship, for that matter - the clock is ticking.

As of January 2011, both ship and line are pulling out, headed for the warmth and higher revenues of the Caribbean and Mediterranean.

While the week-long cruises out of Los Angeles were undoubtedly popular, the problem was a question of revenue.  The ship may have been at-capacity, but with stiff competition on the route the result was such that the line felt it couldn't command the fares a ship the size of Mariner needed to operate.

 Mariner of the Seas towers over Puerto Vallarta.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders

Unlike the Caribbean - which offers numerous possible ports of call and itineraries from a vast array of turnaround ports, the Mexican Riviera consists of three major ports: Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta.  Others, such as Acapulco, simply aren't reachable on a week-long cruise from Californian waters.

The end result is that each cruise line is forced to offer the same basic itinerary, leaving passengers to choose their cruise based purely on the ship operating it, or, in the case of many travellers, the cheapest voyage.

Nighttime aboard Mariner of the Seas in Puerto Vallarta.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders 

With the Caribbean market heating up again, and the European cruise market positively exploding on a year-round basis, the decision was an easy one: pull Mariner of the Seas from the West Coast and redeploy her.  

So why should you get in on these last few months of Mexican Riviera sailings?  After January, it's anyone's guess as to when Royal Caribbean will even consider returning to the region, and when it does, it's highly unlikely it will deploy a Voyager-class ship on the run like Mariner of the Seas.  Therefore, it truly will be the end of an era for West Coast cruising, and one which will be remembered for its brevity: Mariner only arrived in these waters in February, 2009 - making her entire tenure in the region less than two years.  

To get in on these final sailings, visit Royal Caribbean's website and join Mariner on one of her November, December or early January sailings. 

Friday, October 15, 2010

Celebrity Century Rudder Damage Cancels Cruise

USA Today is reporting that Celebrity Century has suffered some sort of rudder damage that will necessitate a drydock.  As such, the current Mediterranean sailing - which only departed two days ago - is now cancelled.

Divers reportedly discovered the problem while the ship was docked in Villefranche, near Nice, France.  What led divers to inspect the ship in the first place is still unclear.  It is also unknown how and when the rudders became damaged.

Passengers are reportedly allowed to stay onboard the ship until Saturday, at which time they have to be off.  Complicating matters is the fact that hotel space in Villefranche and Nice is not only scarce, it's beyond the means of many passengers.  USA Today states Celebrity is only offering bus transportation back to the embarkation port of Barcelona - a ten hour trip - due to the recent French rail strike.

At this point, the line still expects to operate the October 25th Transatlantic to Miami as scheduled.

We will update this story as more details become available.

Photo of the Week - October 15

The sun rises over Los Arcos in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
Photo © Aaron Saunders
While we're hard at work preparing articles for the weekend, we thought it would be timely to share one of our favorite shots of Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.  

Famous for its beautiful sunsets and laid-back atmosphere, the resort town of Cabo San Lucas lies on the Pacific coast of Mexico and is a popular port of call for Mexican Riviera cruises departing from Los Angeles and San Diego.

Essentially an unknown fishing village until the mid-1970's, Cabo San Lucas has undergone a rapid and remarkable transformation into one of the premier resort towns Mexico has to offer.  And as the weather in many parts of North America and Europe takes a cold, snowy turn, the warm sandy beaches of Baja California Sur become all the more appealing.

Sound like fun?  Carnival, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line and Princess are some of the regulars to call at Cabo San Lucas, and most are ramping up their Mexican Riviera seasons as we speak.

From the Deck Chair will return tomorrow with an all-new series of articles.  Be sure to stay tuned!

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Auckland Cruise Calls Set to Increase

As travelers look to explore new horizons, destinations like Europe, South America, and Asia are seeing massive growth in terms of cruise ship deployment.  Cruise lines are looking to deploy their fleet in the most profitable regions, and those areas are increasingly in locations formerly thought of as "exotic", but quickly leading the new wave of mainstream cruising.

New Zealand is one of those destinations.  In the country's largest city, Auckland, Prime Minister John Key told a packed tourism conference he supports the development of a new cruise terminal which would be built at Queen's Wharf.

The reason for the announcement?  The revelation that the 2011/2012 cruise season is poised to see an increase in calls of 53% - an astonishing number of calls that many destinations in North America would scramble to get ahold of.

Recognizing that, Prime Minister Key pledged to have the terminal and corresponding convention centre built "as soon as possible" in order to take advantage of the burgeoning cruise market.  Both New Zealand and Australia have seen an explosion in cruise calls to their region, with almost every major cruise line operating a series - or even a full season - of voyages "down under."

Aiding the region's growth is the relative ease of arrival: many West Coast cities offer direct flights to Auckland, and while flight times range in the 13 to 14 hour range, few require a connection and many can be had for less than a comparable flight to Europe.  Being located in the Southern Hemisphere also helps, as they experience their winter when the Northern Hemisphere is desperate to escape theirs. 

So is a New Zealand adventure in your future?  Have a peek at your favorite cruise line to discover why this region is quickly becoming one of the hottest destinations in the world.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Leading By Example

 James Deering aboard Crown Princess in 2007.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

While the news this past weekend has focused mainly on Cunard's forthcoming Queen Elizabeth, it was refreshing to see a good friend of mine also made the headlines.

The Japan Times recently ran an in-depth article on James Deering, one of the most capable and skilled Hotel Managers in the cruise industry.  For the past sixteen years, James has worked in an astonishing array of roles aboard thirty ships and has literally visited almost every corner of the world.  How he got to this point - managing cruise ships with enormous passenger counts - is equally fascinating.

I first met James when he was Hotel Manager aboard Holland America Line's Oosterdam.  While there are many hard-working, eternally capable individuals employed on today's cruise ships, James takes things one step further: you'll never find him hiding in his office.  Instead, he's out and about, checking on his passengers and crew and ensuring things run smoothly.  With 3,000-plus passengers, it's no easy task.  Yet, James does it in a way that looks effortless.

He's also a wealth of knowledge on just about any subject you can put to him.  Really. It's just impossible to stump the man. 

Since that first meeting aboard the Oosterdam I've had the privilege (and, frankly, good luck) to have sailed twice with James during his stint at Princess aboard Crown Princess.  This October, Holland America fans have reason to rejoice as he returns to the line, this time as Hotel Manager aboard Noordam after a well-deserved year off in Tokyo, where he and his wife call home.

Personally, I admire his calm demeanor and the way he leads by example.  More than once, I've seen him multitask in ways many simply couldn't be bothered to do.  While leading us on a small tour once, another employee was struggling to lift a heavy pallet over a fire door jamb.  Without missing a beat, James picked up the other end and helped the crew member with his work.  In a world where so many  seem content to do the bare minimum, it's refreshing - and inspiring.

If you've had the good fortune to sail with James Deering, chances are you already know this.  If you haven't, you're missing out.

Holland America and its passengers alike certainly have reason to look forward to his return to the venerable line.