Researched and Written By

Researched and Written By Aaron Saunders

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Five Great Reads for your Next Cruise

 Whether its on an airplane or simply relaxing on deck while your ship is at sea, there's no denying a great book is an excellent addition to any vacation.  So what to read on your next trip?  Here's some of our destination-specific favorites.

Arctic / Northern Europe - The Terror by Dan Simmons
2007; Little, Brown & Co.  784 Pages.


For almost two centuries, the question of the fate that befell the Franklin Expedition of 1845 has mystified researchers.  Under the command of Sir John Franklin, Britain's mighty HMS Terror and Erebus set out in search of the fabled Northwest Passage.  Aside from three graves on Beechy Island, little is known what happened during the intervening three years.  We know Sir John Franklin died in 1847, and that the ships were abandoned in 1848 - three years after setting out from England, and after enduring two consecutive winters locked in the ice.

All of the above was reported in a single note hidden in a cairn.  The first passage is written with a steady hand, stating in early 1847 that all is well.  The next passage is written in April 1848 by a man clearly freezing to death.  How did things go so wrong?

Fiction master Dan Simmons turns his attention to this question in The Terror.  While a work of fiction, the book stays on the known facts, weaving fictional elements in the gaps where history does not record what happened.  What he has created is an almost 800-page tome that presents a plausible - and horrifying - imagining of the ordeal endured by Franklin and his men.

Panama Canal - The Path Between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal - David McCullough
1978; Simon & Schuster.  698 Pages.


The building of the Panama Canal is arguably one of the greatest technological achievements of all time.  Author David McCullough details the unbelievably messy, dangerous and downright disastrous construction period that spanned almost 34 years from the first attempt to final completion in 1914.  At the end, more than 21,000 workers had been killed in the initial French attempt to build a canal in 1880, and a further 5,600 in the successful 1904-1914 attempt.  

This is a non-fiction book that reads like a thriller; the fact that the canal was even built, requiring a collaboration between Panama and the United States, is nothing short of a miracle.  An absolute must-read for those transiting the canal this winter.

The Mediterranean - The Tourist - Olen Steinhauer
2010; Minotaur Books. 432 Pages.


Set in Venice, Italy and soon to be a major motion picture starring Johnny Depp, The Tourist follows CIA "tourist" Milo Weaver - a special agent with no true identity who's trying to leave the profession for good.  
Starting in 2001 and continuing in 2007, the book chronicles Milo's search for a hit man known only as "The Tiger" - a journey that will take him from Venice to New York to Paris and back again.  An uncommonly intelligent thriller, this is one spy novel you don't want to miss and will help that long-haul flight go by just a little faster.

Caribbean - The Girl Who Played With Fire - Steig Larsson
2010; Penguin Publishing.  724 pages.



The second novel in the late Steig Larsson's master trilogy opens on the sunny shores of St. Georges, Grenada.  Hacker-genius Lisbeth Salander is semi-permanently vacationing on the island, dividing her time between the comfort of her resort and the white sand of Grand Anse beach.  Upon her return to Sweden, she finds herself accused of three brutal murders.  Now, journalist and friend Mikael Blomkvist has to help Salander prove her innocence - before time runs out.

If you've never read the first book in the series, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, pick it up.  Together, these are some of the most addictive, page-turning, sleepless-night inducing novels you're likely to read.  Sadly, Larsson died in 2004 shortly after he delivered the manuscripts for his trilogy to the publisher.  An Editor-in-Chief of a major Swedish magazine himself, Larsson has crafted stories and characters so interesting you'll think they were real. 

 While not all of the book takes place in Grenada, it's sufficiently central to the plot to warrant putting it here.  By the time she goes back to Sweden, you'll be hooked anyway.  Just don't read this one ashore without setting your watch to remind you to head back to the ship; it's easy to loose an afternoon in this novel.

Antarctica - Return to Antarctica - Adrian Raeside
2009; J. Wiley & Sons.  336 pages.



In June of 1910, Robert Falcon Scott embarked on what would prove to be a disastrous expedition to the South Pole.  Not only would he lose the pole to Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen, but he and four others would die in their efforts to claim the pole for England.

Fortunately for history, key expedition member Charles Seymour "Silas" Wright kept a diary that spanned their initial departure from New Zealand to the miserable winters endured in total darkness.  Silas himself
came within a hair's breadth of being picked to accompany Scott to the South Pole.

One hundred years later, grandson Adrian Raeside, author of The Other Coast comic strip and regular political cartoonist for The Victoria-Times Colonist chronicles the adventures of his grandfather, following in his footsteps to Antarctica, where the huts his grandfather wintered in a century before still stand, almost untouched by time. 

What follows is a remarkable tale of survival in some of the harshest conditions imaginable - a kind of journey modern travelers can only dream of.  Do yourself a favor and read this book.




Monday, November 29, 2010

Photo of the Week - November 29

Two Grandeur of the Seas crew members watch
Key West fade into the distance.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Our Photo of the Week for the final days of November and start of December shows the beautiful town of Key West, Florida fading into the distance in the wake of Royal Caribbean's Grandeur of the Seas.  Taken on January 20, 2009, the normal warmth of the Florida Keys deserted us this day: it was dark, windy and extremely cold. 

The natural beauty of this little slice of paradise still shone through, though.

From the Deck Chair will return tomorrow.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Port Profile: Geiranger, Norway

 Sailing the magnificent Geirangerfjord near Geiranger, Norway.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

One of the most frequently photographed locations in Norway is the Geirangerfjord.  At fifteen kilometers in length, it can take cruise ships up to two hours to navigate from open ocean to the small town of Geiranger, nestled at the fjord's end.  During this time, passengers are treated to some of the most spectacular scenery that can be seen at sea.  

The fjord itself features two famous waterfalls: the Seven Sisters and the Suitor.  The Seven Sisters is arguably the most famous; indeed, if you open any cruise brochure and flip to the Northern Europe section, chances are the Seven Sisters is featured prominently.

 The Seven Sisters, seen in closeup.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

While the Seven Sisters is made up of seven individual falls that cascade down an almost vertical cliff face into the fjord, the nearby Suitor is equally impressive.  While it contains less individual streams, it boasts considerably more power.  The transit of Geirangerfjord is definitely something you want to be out on deck for; because ships must retrace their steps later on in the day in order to reach open ocean, passengers are able to experience both sides of this fascinating journey.

 Notice the size of the passenger ferry in this photo -
the Geirangerfjord is massive.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Some itineraries will include a short "service call" to nearby Hellesylt before proceeding on to Geiranger.  This allows passengers to take overland shore excursions and rejoin their ship later in the afternoon. 

Some day, this beautiful passage may no longer be possible: the Ã…kerneset mountain is continually eroding, and a large chunk overhangs the fjord.  An eventual collapse would create a tsunami that would completely obliterate the towns of Geiranger and Hellesylt, and block the fjord in the process.  Fortunately, this event isn't likely to happen for hundreds of years.

 Arrival and tender operations in the beautiful village of Geiranger.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Like so many beautiful Norwegian locales, Geiranger is nestled comfortably at the end of the fjord, making it a popular port of call for cruise ships.   Tourism is the town's main source of income, and over 180 ships can visit during a typical summer season.  Thanks to the number of things to do here - overland excursions, kayaking, or simply wandering the beautiful countryside - the town never seems overly crowded, except perhaps at the tender piers.

Only 250 people live here year-round, a figure that becomes impressive when you consider how many passengers visit via cruise ship on a given day.  During our call in August 2009 aboard Crown Princess, we were also joined by the popular German "clubship" AIDAaura and Celebrity Equinox, which was on its maiden voyage from Southampton.

Assuming each of these ships carried their regular passenger compliment, roughly 7,230 people descended on Geiranger that day; twenty-eight times the population of the town.  It's a testament to the people of Geiranger that everything seemed to run and work so, well, seamlessly.

 Part of the small shopping area near the tender piers.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Near the tender piers is a small shopping area.  Unlike many ports of call, there are actually many shops here worth looking at that offer goods that are completely unique to Geiranger, or hand-crafted nearby.  Be sure to find a cafe to kick back at and relax while enjoying a delicious cup of coffee or a well-deserved cold pint.  The scenery here is beautiful, and the atmosphere laid-back.

 Heading up the steep roads from the town.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

If you do anything in Geiranger, definitely take the time to wander the twisting, steep roads that lead out of town.  The photo opportunities are more than worth it.

 The Geiranger Church.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

We took the time to wander the grounds of the Gerianger church.  Built entirely of wood, this structure has stood on this spot for hundreds of years, overlooking the same impressive fjord.  If you're from North America - still a relatively young continent in many places - you're likely to find the birth and death dates on the surrounding headstones to be very revealing: many date from the 1700's or earlier.

Re-tracing our steps back through the Geirangerfjord in early evening.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

All too soon, our time in Geiranger had come to and end, but not before our return journey through the fjords.  While the sun never fully sets in summer at these northern latitudes, the impending dusk made for a memorable evening.  If there is one itinerary where a balcony pays for itself, it is this.

For more information on the Geirangerfjord and Geiranger itself, be sure to visit the official Geiranger website.

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Ship Profile: Majesty of the Seas

 Majesty of the Seas in the Caribbean.
Photo courtesy of Royal Caribbean

April, 1992. 

Microsoft has just released Windows 3.1, EuroDisney opened for the first time just outside of Paris, and the Bosnian War is in its earliest stage. 

It also marked the maiden voyage of Royal Caribbean's Majesty of the Seas.


The third and last in a trio of newbuilds that would prove to be the template for future cruise ships to come, Majesty of the Seas was as trendsetting as her sisters, Sovereign of the Seas (1988) and Monarch of the Seas (1991).  She featured the trademark Viking Crown Lounge mounted halfway up the funnel of the ship, as well as a sweeping, multi-storey atrium christened "The Centrum", numerous public lounges, and a vast array of comfortable, if slightly cramped, accommodations.

To fully understand the impact Majesty of the Seas and her sisters had on the cruise industry at the time, it's important to look at where the industry was in 1992.  Unlike today - where every cruise line has a fleet of new, purpose-built cruise ships, in 1992 more than half the industry was reliant upon older, hand-me-down tonnage.  The building boom that would run right into the next decade was just starting to ramp up: Holland America Line's Statendam was still a year away from entering into service;  Norwegian Cruise Line had their Norwegian Dream due to launch that December; and Princess Cruises had just launched the brand-new Regal PrincessThe Renzo Piano-designed ship would become the most photographed cruise ship in the world until the launch of Grand Princess in 1998, and Voyager of the Seas in 1999.

By the time Majesty of the Seas came along, it firmly entrenched Royal Caribbean in the mega-ship race.  When Sovereign of the Seas was under construction in 1987, she was the largest cruise ship in the world, and the largest one built in almost thirty years.

At the beginning of 2007, Majesty of the Seas went into drydock for an entire month.  When she emerged, she sparkled like new.  A multi-million dollar refurbishment saw vast improvements to public rooms and staterooms, removing some of the heavy brass and chrome accents popular in the early nineties and replacing them with more traditional woods and soothing colors.  The ship also acquired a Johnny Rockets, Seattle's Best Coffee, an ice cream bar, a vastly updated Bolero's nightclub, and updated "soft" furnishings throughout like new carpeting and upholstery.

Today, Majesty of the Seas operates three and four-night cruises to the Bahamas departing round-trip from Miami, Florida.  For those looking to experience a comfortable, quick getaway aboard one of the first trendsetting cruise ships, it's hard to go wrong.

Prices for Majesty of the Seas Bahamian sailings start at the ultra-low price of $129.00 per person in an inside cabin on a four-night sailing.  For more detailed information, be sure to visit Majesty of the Seas on Royal Caribbean's website.

Friday, November 26, 2010

P&O's Eco-Friendly Azura

P&O's Azura sails into Southampton, England for the first time.
Photo courtesy of P&O Cruises

When we first wrote about Azura, P&O's newest addition to its fleet, back in April, we raved about the diversity of her public rooms and accommodation.  Despite being built upon the same platform as Princess Cruises' Crown Princess, Azura remained a truly distinct vessel that has been tailored in every way to appeal to British and European tastes.

According to The Daily Echo, Azura also contains one small feature that has the capacity to be meaningful in an enormous way.

For at least a decade now, passengers have been issued a plastic keycard upon embarkation.  This serves not only as the electronic key to unlock their stateroom, but also as their charge card for any items they may wish to purchase while onboard, from drinks to shore excursions to items in the gift shop.  

Azura takes things one step further.  While the keycard guests are issued with is still utilized for all of the above, they also perform one additional task: controlling the lighting in your stateroom.

When the keycard is placed in a small slot on the wall on the inside of the stateroom, the lights turn on.  Removing the keycard causes the lights to turn off.  By doing this, P&O is able to ensure that when passengers leave their stateroom, the lights turn off behind them, reducing the electrical load to the ship in the process. 

Less electrical demand means less strain on the generators, which in turn consume less fuel.  Less fuel burned means less emissions, not to mention the cost savings to P&O every time the ship bunkers, or takes on fuel.

For more information on the unique and innovative Azura, be sure to visit the P&O website.






Thursday, November 25, 2010

Unique Itinerary: Seven Seas Mariner to the Black Sea

Regent's Seven Seas Mariner.
Photo courtesy of Regent Seven Seas Cruises

With exactly one month to go before Christmas, many are looking ahead to 2011.  For the cruise addicts among us, that also means the time to begin planning your Summer 2011 voyage is now.  If the cold has you chattering your teeth and spending fifteen minutes at a stretch bundling up before venturing outside, Regent Seven Seas Cruises has the cure: a 10-day voyage aboard Seven Seas Mariner from Athens to Istanbul.

Departing Wednesday July 6, 2011, this amazing cruise takes guests to some of the most historic sights of the Eastern Mediterranean.  It offers an excellent blend of big-name, must-see ports like Athens and Ephesus, while offering stops in lesser known locales like Nessebur, Bulgaria and Sochi, Russia - home to the XXII Olympic Winter Games in 2014.

The full itinerary:

July 6 - Athens (Piraeus). Greece - Embark & depart at 8pm
July 7 - Ephesus (Kusadasi), Turkey
July 8 - Cruise the Bosphorus Straits
July 9 - Yalta, Ukraine
July 10 - Sochi, Russia
July 11 - Cruise the Black Sea
July 12 - Sevastopol, Ukraine
July 13 - Odessa, Ukraine
July 14 - Constanta (Bucharest), Romania
July 15 - Nessebur, Blugaria
July 16 - Istanbul, Turkey - Disembark 8am.

Fares for this unique voyage start at $7,999 per person and include free roundtrip airfare from most US and Canadian gateways; free unlimited shore excursions; a free luxury hotel package including a 1-night stay in a luxury hotel pre-cruise, including transfers from the airport to the hotel and hotel to the ship, breakfast, and porterage.

The Seven Seas Mariner is an all-suite, all-inclusive ship.  This means even the most affordable stateroom is a substantial upgrade over mainstream lines, and the all-inclusive nature of the vessel means you won't be fishing out that keycard to pay for drinks.  Ever.

For detailed information on this exciting voyage, visit the itinerary page on the Regent Seven Seas Cruises website.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Celebrity Century Rudder Saga Continues

Problems with Celebrity Century's rudder caused chaos in October.
Pictured here is the stern of Celebrity Summit.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders

 When Celebrity Century suffered an issue with her rudders in October, passengers found themselves suddenly having to leave their cruise - and their ship - in the French port of Villefranche.  Along with nearby Nice, they are some of the most expensive ports in the Mediterranean.  None of which is Celebrity's fault - they felt it would be unsafe to attempt to sail the vessel elsewhere.  As such, passengers were disembarked from the ship in Villefranche.

Without flights, during a massive rail strike, and at the peak before the official end of tourist season. 

If passengers wanted to get home, simply booking a return flight or even a hotel room could be an exercise in futility.  If successful, some very hefty prices were their reward.

While the line initially refused to compensate passengers for out-of-pocket travel expenses, after some intense backlash by passengers and the media Celebrity did announce they intended to further compensate passengers.

Today, almost two months later, CruiseCritic reports passengers are having a tough time getting much of anything from the line.

While there are definitely passengers who have received their compensation already, a whopping seventy-five page thread details the full extent of the runaround being given to some passengers by both Celebrity and travel insurance companies, with the chief complaint being an almost total lack of information provided by the line.

Celebrity, for its part, states the claims are "taking a bit longer than guests would prefer." 

Clearly, the company will be compensating all affected guests, and stated its compensation policy had not changed and that the promised reimbursements were still on the table.  

Affected passengers, however, are once again left to put their complete trust in a line that has shattered it once before.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Carnival Splendor's SPAM Debate Rages

I love the fact that the Great SPAM Debate is still being hashed out in the mainstream media.  Even the Wall Street Journal is chiming in with their piece on the subject.

Here's how it all went down: when the Carnival Splendor suffered a debilitating engine room fire a few weeks ago, the US Navy brought supplies out to the stricken ship.  As stoves and heating elements weren't working, the culinary experts aboard the Carnival Splendor had to rely on their creative ingenuity to prepare appetizing meals made only out of cold food reserves.

According to Carnival Senior Cruise Director John Heald's blog, they rose to the challenge with remarkable success, preparing a delicious buffet that was laid out for all in the dining room.  A true example of overcoming the odds masterfully.

Sadly, their hard work - as well as the hard work of every other crew member aboard - isn't being celebrated.  Instead, the mainstream media is still gorging itself on one question: was SPAM served to the passengers?

Here's what we know:
  1. It was loaded onto the ship by the US Navy.  It was not onboard before this.
  2. Carnival has stated repeatedly it was loaded, but never served.
  3. Passengers, typically, have variously claimed to have eaten it or not eaten it. 
My question is this: who cares?

Sure, SPAM may not be the most appetizing foodstuff I've ever encountered, but if it came down to eating it or starving, the next sound you'd hear would be me rolling back the metal top and licking my lips.  

The media may be salivating over it because they're hoping for some smoking gun that will turn the incident into a veritable "SPAMgate" for the industry.  So they have the US Navy's fact, and Carnival's fact, and they're turning to passengers for their input. 

One individual interviewed in the Wall Street Journal indicated the food he ate wasn't SPAM, but it was "SPAM-ish."  Aha!  A clue, Sherlock.  Perhaps the "mystery meat" was a piece of hot dog or meatloaf.

Or perhaps this entire topic is a load of old SPAM.

From the Deck Chair will return tomorrow with more delicious, non-SPAM related coverage.

Monday, November 22, 2010

Vancouver Tallies Miserable Cruise Season

Canada Place, Vancouver, and Celebrity Millennium
seen from the deck of Holland America's Rotterdam in May.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders 

The number of passengers who embarked on an Alaska or Pacific Coastal voyage from Vancouver, British Columbia this year are in - and they're not good.

This year's Vancouver passenger count was down to 575,000 from 898,473 for the same period last year.  The total economic impact in British Columbia of the reduced passenger count fell 26.3% to $1.2 billion from 1.6 billion in 2009.  Not since 2003 has there been a greater reduction in overall spending.

While the Port of Vancouver - now known as Port Metro Vancouver - initially lost some vessel traffic to Seattle when Norwegian Cruise Line first set up shop there in 1999, the de-facto home of the Inside Passage Alaska cruise continued to do remarkably well, even in the wake of 9/11.

In fact, the cruise industry in Vancouver was continuing to grow so rapidly that between 2001 and 2002, Canada Place was extended to enlarge the West and East berths to accommodate larger vessels, and created a third, North berth.  This arrangement could allow up to three large cruise ships to tie up at Canada Place at any given time, or four vessels if one was a smaller, expedition-style ship like the former Cruise West ships.

Even with this expansion, the intervening years had days so busy that all three berths at Canada Place and both berths at nearby Ballantyne Pier were full.  On a turnaround weekend, traffic around Canada Place was a nightmare, with over twelve thousand people embarking or disembarking.  But lurking behind the incredible numbers of passengers coming and going each year was the disturbing fact that each year, Port Metro Vancouver was loosing one or two ships to Seattle. 

The Alaska Passenger Head Tax, coupled with the worst recession in decades in addition to absurdly high air prices to Vancouver International Airport forced many cruise lines to reconsider their deployment practices, opting to send ships to Seattle, which offers cheaper airfare out of Sea-Tac for many US-based customers, and is just as close as Vancouver.

When the damage was done, it hit home with surprising ferocity.  This year, I could count on one hand how many crazy days there were: one in May, and one in September.  In fact, Ballantyne Pier sat vacant and underutilized between the Olympics in February and one busy September day that saw it used for Holland America's Rotterdam and NCL's Norwegian Pearl.  

It was the slowest, most uneventful year for the port. 

As we wrote back in September, while the future for Port Metro Vancouver looks brighter in 2011, there is still work to be done.  The arrival of Disney Cruise Line and Oceania to the port marks a definite highlight on the horizon.

Let's hope it's a highlight that is here to stay.

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Silversea to Release 2012 Sailings Dec 15

Silversea's Silver Cloud, seen in this fantastic photo on an Asian voyage.
Photo courtesy of Silversea

While many mainstream lines have had at least part of their 2012 schedules available for some time now, Silversea is set to satisfy many of its past and future passengers when it releases its full 2012 lineup on Wednesday, December 15, 2010.  Prospective cruisers will be able to book their favorite 2012 voyage on that date as well.

In a posting on the line's official blog, it was announced the 2012 voyages were created with extensive input from past Silversea guests, and will include many of the once-in-a-lifetime voyages and expedition cruises that have garnered the line many awards and a loyal repeat passenger base.

While full details won't become available until December 15,  the line did make a point of stating that many of the new voyages will be available with free airfare and transfers, a promotion that can literally pay for itself depending on the port of embarkation.  

Curious?  Keep your eyes peeled on Silversea's website - the full details are only a few weeks away.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Unique Itinerary: From Greenland to Greenland

 Sun sets over the icy seas of Greenland.
Photo courtesy of Greenland Tourism

Long-time readers of this blog will know I'm hugely fascinated by Arctic and Antarctic travel.  A cruise to these regions is one of the most completely unique, life-altering voyages a person can take, if only because it represents such a departure from what most people would consider to be 'normal.'  Indeed, I've profiled some of the amazing offerings from lines like Hapag-Lloyd Cruises, Quark Expeditions and Silversea's remarkable Prince Albert II.

So when I cracked open my copy of the new Summer 2011 brochure from Compagnie du Ponant, my jaw hit the floor.  Not only is their fleet deployment remarkable in the variety of both itineraries and destinations, they offer some fantastic cruises to far-flung destinations.

Though the French company still remains largely unknown to the average North American traveler, their public awareness is slowly but steadily growing.  And that's a good thing.  Their sleek, modern yacht-like ships are almost a cross between a European river cruise vessel and an upscale yacht (think of Avalon Waterways meeting Silversea or The Yachts of Seabourn.)

 The popular tourist destination of Illulissat, Greenland.
Photo courtesy of Greenland Tourism

So where can you sail with Compagnie du Ponant?  Here's one of my personal favorite itineraries:

 Departing August 11, 2011 aboard Le Boreal from Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, this 13-day itinerary takes guests to some of the most remote parts of Greenland and Canada's arctic territory, Nunavut.

August 11 - Kangerlussaq, Greenland - depart 5:00pm. 
August 12 - Illulissat, Greenland
August 13 - Illulissat, Greenland
August 14 - Eqi Glacer / Base Paul Emile Victor
August 15 - Sailing the Upernavik Fjords
August 16 - Sailing Melville Bay
August 17 - Savissivik, Greenland
August 18 - Pond Inlet, Nunavut, Canada
August 19 - North Arm Fjord, Nunavut, Canada
August 20 - Isabella Bay, Nunavut, Canada
August 21 - Kivitoo and Qikiqtarjuaq, Nunavut, Canada
August 22 - At Sea
August 23 - Kangerlussaq, Greenland - arrive 5:00am.

 An Illulissat church, overlooking the sea and ice.
Photo courtesy of Greenland Tourism

Pricing for this fascinating voyage starts at $7,870 US per person and includes complimentary mineral water and coffee, as well as complimentary wine served with all meals.  The brochure price includes roundtrip airfares and transfers for guests from Paris - while this may seem unhelpful to North Americans, it is far easier (and far less expensive) to book a flight from North America to Paris than it is to attempt airfare to Kangerlussaq on your own - in many cases this involves a multi-flight layover in London or Reykjavik, then backtracking via one of the very few scheduled flights to Greenland, or the purchase of private charter air. 

Trust us - take the included air from Paris. 

For more information, visit the Compagnie du Ponant website.

Curious about Le Boreal?  Hop on over to Bart de Boer's ShipParade website where he has a fantastic tour of this unique vessel.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Spirit of Oceanus Sold to Quark Expeditions

Cruise West's former Spirit of Oceanus has finally found a new home in Toronto-based Quark Expeditions, which has chartered the ship for use this winter.

Renamed Sea Spirit, she will operate cruises to Antarctica starting next month and continuing until March, 2011.  No word on what itineraries she will operate for the line following her journey to the Southernmost Continent.

Spirit of Oceanus was on a year-long world cruise when her journey was abruptly terminated upon her arrival at St. John's, Newfoundland, when owners Cruise West declared bankruptcy and abruptly terminated operations following years of struggle and consecutive losses. 

As Sea Spirit, she will arguably be one of the most luxurious ships in the Quark fleet.  The line, which specializes in a variety of expedition cruises to both arctic and antarctic regions, operates a fleet of chartered icebreakers, including the nuclear-powered 50 Years of Victory, as well as smaller expedition ships that are best described as hybrid cruise-research vessels. 

For detailed itinerary and pricing information for Sea Spirit, be sure to visit the Quark Expeditions website.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Queen Mary 2: A Walk Around the Decks...At Night

Night time is a special event aboard a cruise ship.  While each ship has its own unique persona during the day, at night the combination of the sea, the unique architecture, and innovative lighting combine to create an experience that is as peaceful as it is mysterious.

 Queen Mary 2 alongside the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal,
docked until 2008's Hurricane Kyle passes.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

In September of 2008, the remnants of Hurricane Kyle delayed Cunard Line's mammoth flagship, RMS Queen Mary 2, causing her to overnight at the Red Hook berth in Brooklyn, and to spend the following day anchored off Staten Island.  We were onboard, and spent the better part of the evening strolling the ship's unique promenade deck taking photos to pass the time. 

Come join us now as we go for a walk along QM2's promenade deck at night, and discover what makes this already unique ship so spectacular when the sun goes down. 

 Photo © Aaron Saunders

We begin our journey by exiting the air conditioned pleasantness of the Kings Court buffet area to the oppressive, pre-hurricane heat on the Promenade Deck.  Located on Deck 7, the Promenade deck completes a full circuit of the ship, from the extreme stern to almost the very bow of the vessel.  Classic steamer deck chairs are available to passengers wishing to take in the ocean sights and sounds. 

 Photo © Aaron Saunders

Heading forward on the Starboard side, we're directly outside the spa, who's windows are to the left.  High above us is the ship's navigation bridge, and we're about to enter the area where the promenade deck reaches its foremost point and begins to cross over to port.
 
  Photo © Aaron Saunders

The enclosed forward promenade is perfect for strolling in inclement weather.  Access to the actual, exposed bow area of the ship is provided through bulkhead doors on either side of the ship.  Let's cross through and see what's there...

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

This unique forward deck space is as close to the tip of the bow as passengers can access, and is totally unique amongst cruise ships.  The enormous spare propeller blades - eight in all - are on display here, a sort of 'art with purpose.'  Beyond the cargo cranes lies a large spare anchor in case of emergencies.

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

While its design serves to dissipate any heavy seas the ship might encounter, the forward superstructure is impressive nonetheless.  From bottom to top, it houses the Internet Cafe and Library on Deck 8, the Commodore Club on Deck 9, two Royal Suites on Deck 10, the forward viewing area on Deck 11, and the Navigation Bridge on Deck 12.

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

Coming around the front of the ship, we find ourselves on the Port side of the ship, moored alongside the Brooklyn Cruise Terminal.
  Photo © Aaron Saunders

Another subtle, unique feature of Cunard's ships: they're one of the few to be registered in Southampton, England.  Most cruise ships are registered in Panama or the Bahamas.

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

 Because she was meant to cross the Atlantic regularly and in any weather, Queen Mary 2's lead designer Stephen Payne obtained special permission to raise the height of the promenade deck and lifeboats from the standard height of 49 feet above the waterline to 82 feet.  Payne reasoned with the SOLAS (Safety Of Life At Sea) committee that the increase would keep the lifeboats and deck from becoming awash in abnormally heavy seas.  The increased height of the promenade deck is evident in the above photo, looking down at a tanker truck on the pier.

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

All the way aft is one of Queen Mary 2's many swimming pools, again lit with such vibrant, colorful lighting.  Immediately aft of the pool are a series of water jets that shoot water up vertically at timed intervals.

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

Moving forward on the Starboard side of the ship, we pass the Queen's Grill restaurant.  Dinner has finished, and the room has been meticulously set for the next guests who will dine here as part of their accommodations in the luxurious Queen's Grill suites.  Regular passengers - that's you and me - dine in the much more spectacular, but less intimate, Britannia Dining Room.

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

All the way forward, just before the bridge wing and superstructure enclosure, is a small, glass elevator that goes largely unnoticed by the majority of passengers.  It has a twin on the port side as well.  Both whisk guests from the Promenade Deck 7 to Deck 11, which is where we are headed next.

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

Located on Deck 11, directly below the navigation bridge, is a spectacular forward observation area spanning the dimensions and width of the bridge itself.  It's a modern throwback to the days of the transatlantic greyhounds, many of which included a similar arrangement.  At night, this area is still accessible, lit with navigation-friendly blue running lights.  It's a lesser known area, and offers some of the most spectacular views aboard.  But let's keep it a secret, ok?
  Photo © Aaron Saunders

Looking aft from the Deck 11 viewing area, below the Starboard side bridge wing.  The Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges are in the distance on the far left.
  Photo © Aaron Saunders

Looking forward over the ship's forecastle deck.  Note the spare propeller blades, the heavy-lifting cargo cranes, and the spare anchor all the way forward.

  Photo © Aaron Saunders

After all that walking - almost 3,000 feet worth - it's time to hop back in our favorite "secret" glass elevators and head back down to Deck 9 and the forward-facing, incredibly inviting, Commodore Club.  

Your favorite drink is waiting!

For more information on the Queen Mary 2, be sure to visit Cunard's website.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Carnival Splendor Out for Two Months

Carnival Splendor nearing San Diego last week.
Photo courtesy of the US Navy;
taken by Mass Communication Specialist 3rd Class Erin L. Oberholtzer.

As details of the fire and subsequent loss of power aboard Carnival's Carnival Splendor became known, it began to look less and less likely that the ship, still tied up in San Diego, would be setting sail again anytime soon.

Carnival confirmed this yesterday, stating in a press release that all future voyages would be cancelled up to and including the ship's January 9, 2011 sailing.  The Carnival Splendor is slated to resume her regular schedule starting January 16, 2011.  

Passengers booked on the affected sailings can expect a full refund of their cruise fare, along with a 25% discount on a future Carnival cruise and reimbursement for airline change fees.  This unfortunate incident will impact guests on three of the most popular - and lucrative - sailings of the year: the American Thanksgiving later this month, and the Christmas and New Year's sailings in December.

Teams from the US Coast Guard, NTSB, and flag authorities are aboard the ship.  A special team from Italian shipyard Fincantieri are also aboard the Carnival Splendor, along with representatives from a number of engine component manufacturers.  Their task over the coming months will be to restore the ship to its fully operational state.

It is important to note that no one was hurt or seriously injured during the incident, which took place on Monday, November 8th.  It is the most serious incident to occur on a Carnival ship since the fire aboard the Ecstasy in July of 1998.  That fire began in a laundry room shortly after the ship had set sail from Miami, and caused $17 million in damage.  As with any incident, much was learned from this mishap, and a fire on a similar scale has never happened since.

It is also worth noting that this sort of incident - an engine room fire that cripples the ship's power system - doesn't occur every day.  In fact, this is the first such incident to take place in modern cruising. 

Carnival also takes this incident very seriously, a fact that has been highlighted in the line's response.  They have been continually upfront with their passengers, and compensation has been fair, if not downright generous.  

Other cruise lines, take note.  This is Public Relations 101 - and Carnival has passed this test with flying colors. 

Are you a passenger on one of the affected sailings?  Carnival has some options for you:  please read and download the affected guest PDF available on their website for detailed information.  It would be wise to rebook your cruise as early as possible, while a maximum number of alternate sailings remain.  While capacity on the Mexican Riviera run is limited, Carnival does have a number of exciting Caribbean sailings that are sure to please affected passengers.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Holland America Offers a Chance to Experience Half Moon Cay

 Half Moon Cay, Holland America's private island in the Bahamas.
Photo courtesy of Holland America Line

Holland America Line's little slice of heaven in the Bahamas, Half Moon Cay, is widely regarded as being one of the premier private islands of any cruise line. Since being purchased by the line in 1996, it has offered guests the chance to spend a day in paradise, swimming in the aqua blue water, basking in the sun, sailing, kayaking, playing volleyball - the choice is yours.

Now, Holland America has given prospective guests another way to visit the island: by entering the "Win the Key to Half Moon Cay" contest via Facebook.

Running through January 3, 2011, the contest gives Facebook users who "like" Holland America's Facebook page the opportunity to upload a photograph that captures the essence of "living the good life" while on holiday for a chance to win a seven-night cruise for four on an itinerary calling at Half Moon Cay.  The winner will receive accommodation for two in a suite, while two additional guests will be accommodated in one of the line's spacious veranda suites.

 ms Zuiderdam tendering passengers ashore at Half Moon Cay.
Photo courtesy of Holland America Line

On the island, the winner will be presented with "the key" to the island in a ceremony presided over by the ship's Captain or another senior Officer.  Guests will then have the ability to have a picnic lunch on the island with unlimited drinks and a complimentary shore excursion for four.

To sweeten the deal, the winner also receives a $500 onboard credit, a $150 spa credit, complimentary dinner for four at the line's signature Pinnacle Grill restaurant, complimentary dinner for four at the new Tamarind restaurant aboard ms Eurodam and ms Nieuw Amsterdam, and a whopping 250 free minutes of internet access.

The contest is open to legal residents of the United States and Canada, excluding Quebec and Puerto Rico.  

So is this a good deal?  Well, we can't think of a better way to experience "the good life" than with a visit to Half Moon Cay.

Can you?

For more details, be sure to visit Holland America Line's website, and remember to "like" their Facebook page!

Monday, November 15, 2010

Carnival Splendor Update - November 15

There is an important post by a guest on the affected Carnival Splendor sailing on John Heald's blog that is worth mentioning again here - if only because the mainstream media seems reluctant or unwilling to publish the information contained within.

The passenger - a travel agent with a group of well over one hundred guests aboard - notes that no article they've read in the mainstream press has discussed the compensation guests were offered by Carnival.  Because this information is important to consider, and because it's been so largely ignored, I'll repeat it here in detail:

  • Passengers offered a full refund.
  • Future cruise credit equal to the total amount originally paid for the voyage, to be used within two years.
  • Transportation costs refunded from San Diego to each guest's final destination.
  • Overnight stays in San Diego upon request, plus a daily per Diem.
  • Airfare changed and fees refunded by Carnival.
  • Charges made to onboard accounts on Sunday (the first true day of the cruise) refunded.
  • All photos at the onboard photo gallery were available to guests free of charge.
  • Free alcohol once bars opened on Tuesday and Wednesday.
  • In-stateroom mini-bars free of charge.  The average mini-bar contains multiple sodas, bottled water, spirits and beer.

The passenger who wrote to John Heald was right.  In fact, I've browsed more than twenty-five articles without a single mention of compensation.  So far, I've found five references to the Titanic, but not a single quote or interview with anyone at Carnival or any crew members aboard the Carnival Splendor, save for snippets from John Heald's blog.  Instead, most articles focus on the expert testimony and obviously well-informed opinions of Mr. and Mrs. Cruiser from Anytown, USA.

In fact, I found more than one article in which the major content was proving that the media was correct in stating Spam was aboard the ship (it was loaded aboard by the US Navy but never served to passengers.) 

Is that really the most important issue here - whether or not guests ate Spam?  A multi-million dollar cruise ship suffers a debilitating engine fire, the crew performs their jobs admirably and all aboard are safe, yet the big question is: did passengers eat Spam and Pop Tarts?

It's a shame.

Tomorrow we're leaving the Carnival Splendor issue behind, until we learn more about her future and any affected sailings. 

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Allure of the Seas debuts in Ft. Lauderdale

Allure of the Seas arrives for the first time in Port Everglades
(Ft. Lauderdale), Florida on November 11, 2010. 
Photo courtesy of Royal Caribbean

Royal Caribbean made headlines again this past Thursday as Allure of the Seas completed her first arrival to the United States.

Watching the online video of Allure's arrival into Port Everglades, it's difficult to not be swept up in the obvious enthusiasm the executives at Royal Caribbean and the crew oboard feel about the newest addition to the fleet.

At 225,282 GRT and measuring 1,187 feet in length and with a maximum breadth of 208 feet, Allure of the Seas boasts the same impressive dimensions as her sister, Oasis of the Seas.  In short, she is gargantuan, larger than even Cunard Line's flagship, RMS Queen Mary 2.  Interestingly, QM2 is taller by .2 feet and boasts two additional feet of draught.

Allure of the Seas is far from being a carbon copy of her sister, though.  Several improvements and additional features have been added that differentiate her from both Oasis as well as other ships in the industry.

She boasts a full-fledged Starbucks Coffee kiosk aboard, as well as a 3-D movie theatre - both firsts for the industry.  iPod docks are also included in every stateroom, and the enormous vessel is equipped with interactive, digital signage - allowing passengers to know where they are, wherever they are.

The innovative ship can play host to a maximum of 6,296 total guests and 2,394 crew hailing from over seventy-one different countries.  With all those people, it's important to have suitably numerous public rooms.  Allure of the Seas still retains small, intimate public rooms like the Library, capable of seating eight guests.  On the other hand, the ship's Opus Dining Room can hold a whopping 3,056 passengers - the entire guest capacity of some of the line's smaller vessels.

The coming week will provide time for last-minute touches to Allure of the Seas, including the addition of 12,000 live plants which will be added to the ship's Central Park open-air promenade.  The ship will feature prominently on The Today Show on November 19, and will be officially named on November 28th. A special four-night "preview" sailing will depart on December 1st, with Allure beginning her first, week-long Caribbean revenue voyages on December 5, 2010.

Interested cruisers should be sure to check out the many video galleries shot aboard Allure of the Seas, which are some of the most interesting and best-produced videos in the industry.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Four Large Ships Worth Watching

A few weeks ago, we told you about four small ships that were worth your time and cruising dollars.  In each case, these ships possessed several unique qualities that set them apart from their fleetmates - and the rest of the industry. 

Recognizing that small ships aren't everyone's cup of tea, we now do the same with their larger counterparts and present Four Large Ships Worth Watching.  These are just a few of the unique vessels the mainstream press should be writing about, but generally aren't.

Disney Dream - Disney Cruise Line

 Disney Dream, pictured during construction earlier this year.
Photo courtesy of Disney Cruise Line

I've said it before, and I'll say it again: the January 2011 launch of the Disney Dream could possibly be the most exciting in a long time.  Why, you ask?  There's plenty of reasons for cruisers young and old to be hyped up about this revolutionary ship.  

Elegantly designed to resemble a modern interpretation of the classic ocean liners, Disney Dream eschews the boxy, apartment-like superstructures that have become popular on many newbuilds.  There's still a full promenade deck - another feature rapidly disappearing from many newer ships.  

Most of all, however, the famous Disney attention to detail is evident throughout this incredible 1,115-foot long ship, and the very reason cruisers young and old deserve to sail aboard her.

 Room with a View: Inside staterooms boast a "virtual" porthole.
Photo-illustration courtesy of Disney Cruise Line.
One of these "little details" can be found in the ship's inside staterooms, which feature a "virtual" porthole.  Essentially the same size as an actual porthole, these windows to the world are video screens featuring a live view captured via external cameras mounted to the ship.  Which would be cool enough, but Disney has taken things a step further: if your cabin is all the way forward, starboard side, you will see the views from the forward, starboard side cameras.  If your cabin is aft and port, you will see the views from the aft, port side cameras.  This fascinating feature is something designers clearly didn't have to do - but chose to anyway.  And that's what makes this ship special.

Other niceties: Disney's famous segmented bathrooms are back, and better than ever.  Designed with families in mind, these offer separated bath and toilet areas, ensuring the room can be used by multiple people at once - perfect for families trying to get ready for a day ashore.

Cruisers without kids need not feel left out - in fact, they're just as welcome aboard Disney as any other line, and Disney Dream takes this one step beyond the line's other ships, in offering more dedicated adult venues, dining areas, bars and a total knockout of a spa.  

If you've already sailed with Disney, chances are you need no convincing.  If you haven't, there's never been a better time (or ship) to get your feet wet with The Mouse.


Grandeur of the Seas in Key West, Florida.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

After serving on a variety of Caribbean runs for the past several years, Royal Caribbean's 1996-built, 916-foot long Grandeur of the Seas is poised to sail a different part of the world next summer: the Mediterranean.  On April 24, 2011, she will set sail from Colon, Panama bound for Spain - and there's reason to be excited.

Grandeur of the Seas is part of the Vision-class ships, which were considered groundbreaking upon their launch in the mid-1990's.  They were also known as "ships of light", thanks to their enormous amount of glass, floor-to-ceiling windows.  In fact, it's difficult to find a public room aboard Grandeur that doesn't feature expansive views of the ocean and its surroundings.
The original "ships of light" still retain their expansive views.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

The atrium, aft through the Schooner Bar, the dining room, and even the aft show lounge, are adorned in windows that seemingly never end.  The Windjammer Cafe, all the way forward, features wraparound windows.  Even the solarium pool is suitably sun-drenched.   Sadly, this once popular feature is rapidly disappearing from many newer ships, some of which have public rooms with no windows at all. 
While she might have been built fourteen years ago, Grandeur of the Seas still sparkles, and her future with the line seems secure given this redeployment to such a lucrative run.  For the Mediterranean, dotted with islands and inlets seemingly every nautical mile, you'd be hard-pressed to pick a better ship to sail on.


Norwegian Sun at Canada Place in Vancouver, BC.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Another favorite blazing new trails in Europe is Norwegian Cruise Line's Norwegian Sun.  Formerly a staple of the Alaska "Inside Passage" run, NCL shook things up by deploying the 848-foot long ship to the Baltics for the 2010 summer season.  Her initial season in Europe was so successful that the line is bringing her back to the region next summer. 
Fine dining at Le Bistro, high up on Deck 12.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

So why consider the Norwegian Sun?  While she may not have a bowling alley or "bar central" like her newer fleetmates, the Sun does have a lot going for it: she has an astounding amount of outer deck space, perfect for watching the fjords drift by.  She also boasts all the expected specialty restaurants frequent NCL guests have come to want and expect.  Our personal favorite was Pacific Heights; tucked away on the port side of Deck 11 just aft of the midships pool, our meals here were delicious - and free. 

Although purpose-built for NCL's "Freestyle Cruising", in many ways the ship is the perfect blend of the old and the new NCL: public rooms and decks still retain the "old" NCL names, such as Oslo Deck or Dazzles Disco, but without the odd mishmash of designs brought on by constant refits like the older Norwegian Wind and Norwegian Dream.  The ship also boasts a number of comfortable public rooms, including many situated around the soaring, eleven-story atrium. 

In the end, she is a comfortable, reliable ship that's perfect for those looking to explore the mysteries of Northern Europe for the first time.

Queen Elizabeth - Cunard Line

 Queen Elizabeth arrives in Southampton, UK for the first time.
Photo courtesy of Cunard Line

Don't count Cunard out.  The venerable line, which was very near death until its purchase by Carnival Corporation PLC in 1998, is experiencing another successful chapter in its long and storied history.  With a fleet of three popular ships, including the majestic flagship and modern legend in her own right, RMS Queen Mary 2, things are looking up for the line that pioneered transatlantic travel.

The newly-launched Queen Elizabeth seems poised to ensure that success continues.

When her earlier sister ship Queen Victoria was launched, some lamented that, unlike QM2 - which was wholly original in design - Queen Victoria was built on a modified Vista-class platform, originally designed for Holland America Line's Zuiderdam.  More concerning to Cunard loyalists was the fact that the Vista-class itself was essentially derived from Carnival's Spirit-class ships. 

When Queen Victoria launched though, passengers were forced to concede it was worthy of the Cunard name.  But there were improvements that could be made.  With the launch of Queen Elizabeth this year, it seems Cunard has made good on those modifications.

 The revised - and more open - Britannia restaurant.
Photo-illustration courtesy of Cunard Line

The ship still incorporates the traits and classic styling that have made Cunard so popular, but very much like the above Disney Dream, it does so with a modern twist.  The once claustrophobic Britannia Dining Room has been redesigned and enlarged, creating a much more welcoming space than on her predecessor.  Interiors have also been given a more art deco feel, paying homage to the original RMS Queen Elizabeth and her famous successor, Queen Elizabeth 2.

The 964-foot long ship also boasts a new covered games deck and while it's unlikely many North American passengers will know what to do with the croquet balls provided, you have to applaud the line for recognizing its uniquely British heritage and thinking outside the box at the same time.  A spectacular spa, numerous bars and entertainment venues and a wide array of comfortable accommodation round out the mix.  Passengers who opt for the upper-category Grills accommodations will also have use of two strategically placed telescopes, perfect for arrivals and departures.

If you haven't had the privilege of sailing with Cunard, but are put off by the immense size of the QM2, Queen Elizabeth serves as a fantastic introduction to the line.

Intrigued?  Visit each of the above lines for more information on their respective ships.