Researched and Written By

Researched and Written By Aaron Saunders

Thursday, September 16, 2010

The Best Staterooms You've Never Considered

Be honest: we all secretly drool over the Penthouse Suites that almost every cruise ship offers.  Grand Pianos, marble bathrooms, floor-to-ceiling windows, and a list of amenities that would make Oscar Wilde blush are all available for the taking.  Seven days of living like a veritable King or Queen make even the most humble of us pause for thought.

The reality, however, is that many of us simply can't afford such ample accommodation, choosing instead to go with a compromise that offers value and comfort.  Let's not split hairs here: it's almost 2011, not 1911.  Even the most bottom-of-the barrel inside stateroom on the lowest deck all the way forward next to the elevator is still going to be plenty comfortable, and a heck of a deal to boot. 

However, just as each ship has its own unique personality, each ship also has some great deals to be had in terms of accommodations - and not all are always explained in full detail on the deckplans.  Here, we take a look at some of our favorite, lesser-known stateroom deals.

Obstructed View Staterooms - Vista Class, Holland America Line
(Zuiderdam, Oosterdam, Westerdam, Noordam, Eurodam, Nieuw Amsterdam)

Notice the windows behind the lifeboat?  
They may be obstructed, but these rooms let in plenty of light.
Photo © Aaron Saunders 

You have to hand it to Holland America.  The venerable line is known as much for its high quality of service as it is for the little touches that help distinguish it from its closest competitors.  One of those little touches is present in the Obstructed View staterooms on the line's Vista-class ships.  Less expensive than an outside cabin, these staterooms are positioned behind the ship's lifeboats.  While many have a completely obstructed view, some offer little or no obstruction at all.

To sweeten the deal, the cabin layout and dimensions are identical to the higher-priced balcony cabins above, and the window is floor-to-ceiling; a dramatic improvement over the small-ish square window found in most oceanview staterooms. Even with full-obstruction, these rooms let in a remarkable amount of natural light.

Which rooms offer the best view?  Holland America's deckplans are remarkably accurate in this respect.  Have a peek at where there are gaps between each lifeboat; those are the ones that offer the best view.  The aftermost two staterooms on Deck 4 seem to offer some of the best views, as their obstructions are minimal.

Obstructed Veranda Staterooms - Queen Mary 2, Cunard Line

The view from the veranda of stateroom 8.042 aboard QM2.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Queen Mary 2 is a very diverse ship.  Like the true transatlantic liner she is, the array of accommodations to suit every budget is remarkable.  The ship even has three major categories of veranda stateroom: normal, sheltered, and obstructed view.  Each has their own pros and cons, but for those who want fresh air - but don't necessarily care about the view - QM2 has just the ticket.

Situated on Deck 8 are the category A4 Balcony Staterooms.  These offer the exact dimensions of other, more expensive balcony staterooms with one small catch: the ship's lifeboats are positioned directly in front of them.  

 The view may be obstructed (note lifeboat in the background),
but the amenities remain the same.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

For those wanting to see the ocean at all times, this might be a downside.  But for those who's primary balcony use is for fresh air or to catch a bit of sun, these are ideal.  Less expensive than the unobstructed balcony cabins on higher decks, but more open than the enclosed "Sheltered" balcony staterooms carved into the hull of the ship, these cabins can often be had for mere dollars above similar oceanview accommodation, making the upgrade a no-brainer for many.  After all, the staterooms still offer Cunard's trademark amenities and services.

Promenade Staterooms - Voyager & Freedom Class, Royal Caribbean
(Voyager, Adventure, Navigator, Mariner, Freedom, Liberty, Independence of the Seas)

Interior Promenade Stateroom 8255
aboard Mariner of the Seas.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders 

When Royal Caribbean set out to design its trendsetting Voyager-class ships in the late 1990's, their crowning achievement was to be a three hundred foot-long, four-deck high passageway dubbed the Royal Promenade.  Featuring shops, bars, and daily performances, it would be the largest continuous interior space since the SS Normandie turned the cruising world on its head in the late 1930's with the creation of a cavernous dining room spanning several decks in height.

Spanning four decks in height, Royal Caribbean's design team came up with a unique idea: the creation of inside staterooms featuring bay windows overlooking the promenade.  Thus, the Promenade Stateroom was born. 

 View from stateroom 8255 on Mariner of the Seas
during one of the fantastic parades.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders

The creation is the perfect marriage for those looking for the economy and value of an inside stateroom, but with a view of...well, something other than a wall.  In fact, their love-seat style bay window makes the perfect perch to watch the many parades and shows on the Royal Promenade, and sound insulation is generally very good - meaning your sleep will not be disturbed.

These can be an excellent value, though at times these particular rooms can actually be priced higher than an oceanview cabin because of their tremendous location and views.  If you're never tried one yet, you owe it to yourself to experience it on a future Royal Caribbean voyage.

Studio Staterooms - Norwegian Epic, Norwegian Cruise Line

 The innovative - and economical - Studio Staterooms
aboard Norwegian Epic.
Illustration courtesy of Norwegian Cruise Line

Cruising by yourself?  Not a fan of the odd bathroom arrangement on Norwegian Epic's larger staterooms?  Has NCL got a deal for you: their new "Studio Staterooms" aboard Norwegian Epic are perfect for the solo traveller.

Although they're some of the smallest staterooms you're likely to have stayed in, for one person, they provide ample space.  A circular porthole window lets in light from the outside passenger corridor, and a series of 'mood-lighting' presets lend this stateroom a futuristic appearance.  Inside the room, the usual amenities can be found, though with an eye to keeping things compact.  Indeed, there's just enough room for the bed - and not a lot else, though a sliding door reveals a closet that does provide enough storage space for both clothing and luggage.

Of course, every ship has its own unique staterooms and layout oddities - these are just some of our favorites.  Next time you're in the market to book a cruise, don't discount a particular category of stateroom simply because it seemingly offers less; you may be surprised at just how much these hidden gems have going for them.



Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Line Profile: MSC Cruises

MSC Poesia.
Photo courtesy of MSC Cruises 

If you've researched or booked a cruise to the Mediterranean or Caribbean recently, chances are you probably saw itineraries offered by MSC Cruises.  The fourth-largest cruise line in the world, their rise has been meteoric.  Five years ago, the line had a small fleet consisting of two purpose-built ships and a handful of vessels acquired from other lines. 

In 2010, MSC boasts a fleet of eleven ships, six of which were built in the last four years alone.  Another, MSC Fantastica, is slated to launch in 2012.

During the intervening years, MSC established itself as the de-facto standard in Europe, with a strong presence in the Baltic and Mediterranean.  Recent years have also seen the line expand their winter offerings in South America.  The North American market has been a bit tougher to crack, but like a great prize fighter, MSC picked itself up and dusted itself off, ready for another round.

When the line first entered the Caribbean, initial sailings didn't exactly go as planned.  Complaints about everything from the food to the service to the water onboard were rampant despite the fact that similar complaints just didn't exist for its European sailings.  The biggest gripe, in fact, seemed to revolve around the water in the dining room.  Keeping in custom with many European countries, MSC charged for sparkling water.  North American cruisers, who seemingly want everything to be 'like it is at home', were mortified. 

So MSC listened.

They started putting their newer, flashier ships on the Caribbean runs.  The charge for water was scrapped.  North American sailings offer more culinary choices that will appeal to the average US cruiser.  Onboard accounts, billed in Euros in Europe, are charged in US Dollars.   Theme cruises are offered.

It worked.

By all accounts, the line's 2009 season was a success - so much so that this year, MSC is expanding its North American itineraries by offering voyages to Canada & New England for the first time in its history.  The diverse itineraries rival those on offer from competing lines, and upon completion of this groundbreaking step in the company's history, MSC Poesia returns to Fort Lauderdale for another successful season of Caribbean cruising.

So why should you consider a MSC voyage, particularly in the Caribbean or New England?  Simply put, because they're different.  Sure, they've strengthened and tailored their product to better suit North American tastes, but the Genoa-based line is still very much an Italian line at heart and aims to offer a truly international cruise experience.  The Caribbean tends to be overrun with the same old ships doing the same old itineraries; why not shake it up and try something new?

To whet your appetite, have a peek at the MSC Poesia - virtually - using this tremendous, full-screen virtual tour of the ship.

Now want more?  Hop on over to the MSC Cruises website and experience a taste of Italy without the transatlantic flight.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Port vs. Starboard

Noordam tied up with its port side against Canada Place.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Irregardless of whether you're on your first cruise or your fifty-first, chances are you've heard the terms port and starboard.  After all, on a ship directions are never referred to as 'right' or 'left', given that the orientation of each side can change depending on which direction you're facing.

Many of you probably even know which is which.  When facing forward, towards the bow of the ship, port refers to the left-hand side of the vessel, and starboard the right.  But why do they call it that?  Here's where history comes into play.

Before ships had rudders, they were steered by an oarsman who sat in the stern of the vessel.  Depending on the size of the ship, the rudder needed to be scaled accordingly.  The largest of these were so massive, and weighed such a tremendous amount of weight, that basic physics took over and necessitated a broader handle, which spilled over to the right-hand side of the ship.  The right-hand side was chosen for the simple fact that the majority of people are right-handed.  The word itself comes from the Old English word sterobord and literally means the side of the ship that is steered from.

Since the steering apparatus was commonly mounted on the right hand side of the ship, in order to prevent damaging it vessels routinely tied up with their left side to the dock, or port.  Hence, the port side of the ship was literally the side facing the port itself!

The bridge area of the Volendam.
Note the white running light atop the gym and the red
port-side running light bottom right.
Photo © Aaron Saunders 

In order to distinguish the sides of the ship from one another, and ships passing in the night to easily tell which direction the other was sailing in, a system of navigation lights was developed that is still in use to this day not only on ships, but aircraft as well.

Aircraft have the same terminology and lights.
Note the red port-side running light on the Air Canada 767,
and the green light bottom center.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

It was determined that a green running light would represent the starboard side of the ship, while a red running light would represent port.  White running lights would be placed fore and aft so that the length of the vessel can be judged at night.  In the days before radar and GPS navigation systems, this was critical.  

Colored running lights are always placed near the navigation bridge; sometimes they are located directly on the structure of the bridge wing itself; other times they are located on the superstructure of the ship just below the bridge wing.  In all cases, they must be placed in the immediate area of the navigation bridge.  On aircraft, the port and starboard running lights are mounted on the wingtips.

So the next time you're on your way to the Lido and someone asks what side the desserts are on, you can confidently answer: port or starboard.
 

Monday, September 13, 2010

Focus On...Interior Design, Part II

Back in March, we wrote about some of our favorite public rooms aboard ships, and explained why the interior design of a vessel can set a ship apart from other lines, or even from her very own fleetmates or sister ships.  Indeed, thanks to the creative interior design teams employed by the cruise lines, a voyage on a nearly-identical sister ship can feel like a brand-new experience. 

So what's caught our eye now?  Read on.

The Bar - Silver Shadow, Silversea Cruises

The cozy, welcoming entrance to The Bar
aboard Silver Shadow.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders

Carrying just under three hundred fortunate passengers, Silversea's Silver Shadow is a wonder to behold.  Part cruise ship, part luxury yacht, Silver Shadow manages to successfully blend all the amenities you'd expect of a larger cruise ship with the intimate, spacious and comfortable feel of a smaller ship.  Indeed, she boasts one of the highest passenger-to-space ratios in the industry.  With itineraries ranging in duration from seven days to the incredible month-long circumnavigation of Australia we told you about last weekend, this is a ship that has to be comfortable at all times.

 Intimate, ocean-view seating or comfortable group conversation?
It's your choice when you amble into The Bar.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders
 
Nowhere is this more apparent than at The Bar.  Located on Deck Five just forward of the main show lounge, The Bar serves as the place for fine after-dinner drinks.  But what truly makes this public room stand out is in the details: the crimson-red carpeting and drapes serve to offset the cream-colored walls, lending the room a modern, clubby feel - even during daylight hours when many shipboard public areas aren't known to 'sparkle.' 

A variety of seating can also be found here, from intimate tables for two by the large picture windows, to more social group tables clustered in the center of the room.  Wood-paneled support columns and a wood-paneled bar, complimented by fresh floral arrangements, help to further lend the room an atmosphere that blends traditional sensibilities with clean, modern lines in an understated way.  Whether you're here with a good book during the day or laughing over a cognac in the evening, you're sure to enjoy your time at The Bar.

The Normandie Restaraunt - Celebrity Summit, Celebrity Cruises

  A photo of the restaurant's namesake:
The SS Normandie.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders

Anyone who read the review of my recent cruise aboard Celebrity Summit knows I found the ship lacking in many areas.  While I'm not terribly eager to jump aboard another Celebrity cruise, there's no denying that the interior design of the Millennium-class vessels is quite striking, and Celebrity hit gold with the design of their specialty restaurants.

Aboard Celebrity Summit, the specialty restaurant on Plaza Deck 3 is known as The Normandie, and with good reason: its entire design was inspired by the great Compagnie Générale Transatlantique vessel, the SS Normandie.  Once the fastest and most powerful transatlantic liner afloat, the Normandie surpassed even the great Cunard liners and left them in its dust.  The ship boasted many features never seen aboard a ship, such as a dining room longer than the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.  Not only was it 305 feet long, it towered almost thirty feet in height - an accomplishment not bested until Royal Caribbean unveiled their "Royal Promenade" aboard Voyager of the Seas in 1999.

The Normandie Restaraunt aboard Celebrity Summit.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders 

Unfortunately, the Normandie burned and sank at her New York pier during the Second World War as she was being converted to a troop ship.  Fortunately for history buffs, some of the incredible art deco paneling survived the inferno and still exists today, and passengers aboard Celebrity Summit can view artifacts from the ship, including actual panels from the Normandie.

The design of the room itself is akin to stepping back into the 1930's.  Art Deco is the theme here, right down to the support columns that line the room, creating a separate space for guests to walk in and to their tables without disturbing other diners. 

If you're looking for an enjoyable culinary experience and a bit of history at the same time, this is the place to be.

Stair Towers A, B, C and D - Queen Mary 2, Cunard Line

A landing on Queen Mary 2's 'A'-Staircase.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

When you're building a ship that is over 1,100 feet in length and an incredible 236 feet in height, minimizing passenger confusion is paramount.  Which is why Cunard came up with a unique solution to the question: how can passengers get their bearings?

 Stairwell 'B' aboard QM2.
Photo © Aaron Saunders
Most megaships boast three staircases and elevator banks: forward, midships, and aft.  Queen Mary 2 is so large she boasts four: Stairwells A, B, C and D.  Of course, on a ship so large, it can be easy to get turned around.  But remember: this is the ship that features an honest-to-God planetarium onboard.  And true to form, they executed the staircases perfectly.  In order for passengers to be able to distinguish where they were, they made each staircase unique: each has its own color scheme that is represented in the artwork, wall panelling, and even the carpeting.  

 Stairwell 'C' aboard QM2.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

So how do you know where you are?  Here's the rundown.

Staircase 'A' - Grey carpeting; light cherry walls; ocean-themed paintings.
 Staircase 'B' - Highly polished dark cherry walls; grey-green carpeting; ocean liner paintings.
Staircase 'C' - Lighter, reddish wood walls; grey carpeting; completely different stair arrangement.
Staircase 'D' - Canary yellow carpeting and walls; abstract paintings.

Stairwell 'D' aboard QM2.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

The next time you sail aboard Queen Mary 2, be on the lookout for this and other design features that the attentive team at Cunard put in to this incredible vessel.

Explorer's Lounge - MS Rotterdam, Holland America Line

 Good by day, great by night: the Explorer's Lounge
aboard the Rotterdam.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders

A staple aboard every Holland America Line ship, the Explorer's Lounge is characterized by its comfortable, low-back seating, soft mood lighting, and an impressive painting that usually runs for a substantial length of the wall bordering the funnel uptake casing adjacent to the room.  On the Rotterdam, while the room looks very inviting during daylight hours, it is at night that it truly comes alive.
The Explorer's Lounge aboard Rotterdam.
Photo © 2010 Aaron Saunders
With its bright red carpeting and indirect lighting, at night the room becomes at once cozy and inviting, no matter what the conditions outside.  Classical music is often performed after dinner here and a selection of ports and cognacs combines to make the room an irresistible stop for those on their way to or from dinner.  Despite being adjacent to the main passageway leading to the dining room further aft, the room is remarkably quiet and retains its intimate atmosphere.  Indeed, it's hard to believe you're cruising with over 1,300 passengers: like the Explorer's Lounge, the rest of the ship is so well laid out that it's never difficult to find that perfect space to call your own.

Unlike hotels, it's incredible how much diversity and personality are given to the interior design of each ship.  It's all part of what makes cruising the most magical vacation you can take.

What are your favorite public rooms? 











Sunday, September 12, 2010

Port Profile: Bergen, Norway

With the Northern Europe cruise season drawing to a close, many passengers are already looking to 2011 sailings in the region.  With a multitude of countries, ports, and itineraries to choose from, it can be more than a little overwhelming for first-time visitors to the region.

Which is why we have our new Port Profiles here at From the Deck Chair!

One of the many squares in beautiful Bergen, Norway.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

 With a population of just under 300,000 people, Bergen is the quintessential Norwegian city: nestled in between the green mountains and seemingly endless fjords, the city boasts all the amenities of a large metropolitan area but with the space and charm of a small town.  Indeed, it's hard not to be completely enchanted by this incredible city.

 The historic district of Bryggen.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Most cruise ships dock near historic Bryggen, but a few can tie up at an industrial pier just south of the main part of the city.  Complimentary transportation is usually arranged if you are one of the few that tie up at the distant pier.  

Bryggen is arguably the most famous area of Bergen.  Literally meaning wharf in Norwegian, the area is home to a series of wood-built hanseatic houses that served as the major merchant hub of historic Bergen.  Today, the slanting houses feature floors that warp at odd angles, beams that jut seemingly out of nowhere, and alleyways that criss-cross in almost Venetian fashion. 

Colorful buildings, odd designs, and narrow alleyways:
all part of the fun in Bryggen.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

Of course, instead of offloading goods from ships, the shops that line the waterfront are dedicated to the tourist trade now.  You can literally loose yourself for hours in this incredible section of Bergen; no two shops are alike, and you're sure to come away with a unique, original souvenir of your time in this great Norwegian city.

 Fresh raspberries at the public market.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

If shopping isn't to your liking, why not take in the nearby public market?  Fresh fruit, warm baked bread, and the catch of the day are just a few of the culinary delights you're likely to come across.  While we're on the subject of food, we should point out that most European bottled water is carbonated, not still.  If you like your water flat, not sizzling, be sure to ask if it has "no gas."

The entrance to the Fløibanen.
Photo © Aaron Saunders 

You've souvenir-shopped, you've eaten - why not see Bergen from above?  The Fløibanen Funicular is located just steps from Bryggen and the wharf, and transports guests three hundred meters above Bergen to the top of Mount Fløyen.  The journey takes between five and six minutes in each direction, and once at the top, you are free to explore the many hiking trails that line the mountain.  The funicular usually runs between 8AM and 8PM, and costs 70 Norwegian Kroner  round trip - roughly $11 USD.

If you want to take in the Fløibanen, try to do it first-thing: lines can be considerable for this popular attraction.

A monument to the merchants and seafarers of Bergen.
Photo © Aaron Saunders 

While most cruise lines visit Bergen as a port of call, some lines - particularly Norwegian line Hurtigruten - offer the city up as a port of embarkation.  There are no direct flights from North America to Bergen but several airlines allow for connections in most major European hubs.  Norwegian Air Shuttle and SAS offer connections from London-Gatwick and Oslo, and Lufthansa and KLM provide service from Frankfurt and Amsterdam, respectively.  Icelandair also offers seasonal connections via Reykjavik.

 Old and new collide in Bergen.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

However you choose to spend your day in Bergen, Norway, chances are you will come away with a new found appreciation for this fascinating city; cosmopolitan and historic, many Northern Europe and Norwegian itineraries include Bergen as a port of call.

For more information on Bergen, be sure to visit their official website.




Saturday, September 11, 2010

Cruise West Suspends Bookings; Strands Passengers

Cruise West's Spirit of Nantucket, later Spirit of America,
seen docked in Bar Harbor, Maine in September 2007.
Photo © Aaron Saunders

On Wednesday, Seattle-based Cruise West posted a notice on its website stating that it had suspended all future cruise bookings.  At the same time, passengers aboard Spirit of Oceanus discovered that their world cruise, which began back in April and was due to last until February 2011, wouldn't be sailing any further than St. John's, Newfoundland.  

One hundred and twenty passengers were left to fend for themselves in a city no one expected to disembark in.  

The line is mum on what exactly has happened; it refuses to answer any media inquiries at this time.  Instead, it states it is continuing to "work towards a restructuring of the company and its operations." The prepared statement goes on to explain that during this period "assets may be sold and other steps are being pursued towards a restructure."

While the company hasn't outright confirmed it, Spirit of Oceanus was most likely seized by creditors.  A similar set of circumstances befell airline Mexicana last month before its eventual collapse.  To compound matters, the Seattle Times reports that Cruise West has laid off 65 employees and shuttered its Seattle offices. 

The line says that it intends to operate voyages aboard Spirit of Endeavor and Spirit of '98 through next month, but offers little details on how it intends to make this happen.  Given the suspension of future reservations, coupled with the amount of passengers that will be due refunds in the coming days, this seems highly unlikely.  Passengers booked on October 2010 voyages on either of these vessels would be wise to contact their travel agent or review their insurance policy.

How did this happen?  Like many lines, Cruise West had been hit hard by the recession.  Their real problems, however, began in 2007 and 2008 with a series of embarrassing groundings that resulted in an investigation being launched by the US Coast Guard.  In November 2007, the Spirit of Nantucket struck an underwater object and had to be run aground to prevent her from sinking completely.  In July 2008, the same ship - now named Spirit of Glacier Bay - ran aground near Glacier Bay, Alaska.  

Once again, all passengers had to be evacuated.

2010 saw Spirit of Glacier Bay renamed Spirit of America.  Having trouble keeping it all straight?  Whether a result of the continued groundings or not, the constant re-branding of the line and its vessels only served to bewilder potential passengers, and the line was reportedly struggling to fill its ships.

What can you do if you're booked on a future Cruise West sailing?  If you paid by credit card, a quick call to your card issuer can get the ball rolling since the line will be unable to provide services paid for.  Alternately, if you purchased trip cancellation or interruption insurance - particularly important for those guests who were removed from the Spirit of Oceanus in Newfoundland - you should contact your insurance provider immediately.

Apparently, Cruise West had been offering a small discount to passengers who chose to pay for their voyages by personal cheque.  While the line advises those guests to send an email to info@cruisewest.com if they were affected, it should be noted that paying by cheque is never desirable.  It leaves you with very little recourse should the unforeseen happen, particularly if your travel insurance won't cover you.  Passengers of any line should always try to pay via credit card whenever possible.

We will keep you updated as more information on this situation becomes available.


Friday, September 10, 2010

Safety at Sea: Lessons from the Morro Castle

 The Morro Castle burns off the New Jersey coast
 on the morning of September 8, 1934.
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia

Wednesday marked the seventy-sixth anniversary of a maritime disaster that the modern world of cruising owes much of its fire-safety features to: the fire and subsequent grounding of the SS Morro Castle.

Built in 1930 for the Ward Line, the Morro Castle was designed to compete on the lucrative New York to Cuba run, carrying passengers, cargo and mail between the two countries. The ship was also popular for another reason: the Ward Line was quick to offer plenty of food and alcohol on its voyages, making the perfect getaway for residents of a country still grappling with Prohibition.

When she set sail on her final voyage on September 1, 1934, the Morro Castle had completed her familiar run hundreds of times.  Indeed, the voyage should have been routine and uneventful.  A series of bizarre and unfortunate events, some of which had been put in motion months before, would come to a head and result in the deaths of 134 passengers and crew and forever change maritime regulations.

While the Ward Line portrayed life aboard its ocean liners as idyllic and serene in brochures and marketing material, the truth - at least as far as crew were concerned - was quite different.  Crew morale was low and turnover in key positions was high; despite the fact that jobs were scare during the depression, many employees were unhappy with their rate of pay, which was considered to be low even for the time.  Some though the Ward Line was taking advantage of the situation, an "employer's market" if there ever was one.

Additionally, one crew member - a radio operator named George White Rogers - was making a bit of a name for himself.  The tall, heavyset Rogers seemed to be an amiable fellow, but was prone to black moods.  Most crew, however, preferred him to his assistant, George Alagana. 

Alagana had raised the ire of both officers aboard the ship and the management of the Ward Line by attempting to organize a strike against the line.  Outspoken and brash, Alagana quickly faced the wrath of both the line and Morro Castle's Master, Captain Robert Wilmott, and had already been informed that he would be terminated upon completion of what would be the vessel's last voyage.

The growing unrest amongst his crew only served to make the experienced Captain Wilmott uneasy.  In the months leading up to September 1934, he had become suspicious and easily agitated.  While he still took meals with his passengers, he was otherwise largely invisible, convinced that someone was out to do harm to his ship - or himself.  To his mind, this mystery force had a name: George Alagana.  He'd even confided to Alagana's superior, George White Rogers, about his suspicions.  While Rogers was supposedly the man's friend, he surprisingly didn't come to his defense.  Instead, he poured fuel on the fire by suggesting he'd found two suspicious vials in Alagana's possession.

On the evening of September 7th,  the Morro Castle disaster started in earnest even before the first signs of fire had been discovered.

Captain Robert Wilmott was found dead in his stateroom.

The Captain had complained of stomach pains and retired to his cabin, choosing to skip the customary "Captain's Dinner" that was usually held on this night.  When the ship's physicians attended to him and confirmed that he was, in fact, deceased due to a heart attack, every officer bumped up one rank.  This made former Chief Officer William Warms the Acting Captain of the vessel.  Warms knew of the former Captain's suspicions, and was undoubtedly rattled when the old man turned up dead.
It probably never crossed the mind of William Warms that the ship had not had any sort of fire drill on this voyage.  On a previous sailing, a passenger had tripped over some equipment on the deck during a similar drill and sued the Ward Line.  Since then, the line had been reluctant to conduct safety drills.  The new Acting Captain was probably pre-occupied with other things, namely the worsening weather and the enormous responsibility of assuming command of a vessel paralyzed by suspicion.

As midnight passed, William Warms settled into his new role and turned his mind to the next day's arrival in New York.  That future, however, would come to an abrupt halt at 2:50am, when the first whiffs of smoke were detected coming from a locker in the ship's first-class writing room on B-Deck. 

The fire spread quickly, enabled by crew members not sure of the chain of command or their exact duties.  Instead of manning the hoses, many went up to inform the bridge and in the process, lost precious minutes.  When fire hoses were finally turned on the inferno, many were surprised to find the water pressure had dropped dramatically.  Had they done fire drills, the crew would have known the ship was designed to operate a maximum of six hoses at one time.  Additional hoses simply decreased water pressure.

Paralyzed by indecision, Captain Warms chose first to beach his ship, then abandoned that task as launching the lifeboats became more serious.  This was perhaps his most fatal mistake.  By steaming for shore, the high winds fanned the flames that were by now shooting high above the boat deck, spreading the fire to other sections of the ship.  As many lifeboats on the ship's deck were unlaunchable, and with decking growing hotter by the minute, many took refuge on the ship's fantail stern.  As the situation became more critical, and with almost no official information or direction from the officers or crew of the Morro Castle, many passengers donned lifejackets, and jumped.

Directly above the still-turning screws.

If the rotating screws didn't get passengers, many were somewhat ironically killed by their own lifesaving equipment when they were knocked out by their lifejackets as a result of not holding the top down as they entered the water.  This slammed into their heads as they hit the water, killing them instantly or leaving them at the mercy of the enormous, cold swells that had developed.

When all was said and done, the ship had run aground off Asbury Park, New Jersey.  One hundred thirty four passengers and crew had died, and safety at sea would be changed forever.

As a result of the fire, regulations were completely overhauled.  If the RMS Titanic improved safety in lifeboats, Morro Castle re-invented fire safety.  Fire doors were made mandatory, as were regular fire drills for crew members, and mandatory lifeboat drills for passengers.  Although the ship had fire doors, they were bordered by a wooden frame, which quickly caught and allowed the fire to spread.  Fire bells were also aboard Morro Castle; sadly, these also didn't work. 

Ship design was also overhauled to include fire detectors in passenger spaces, and to eliminate the more maze-like corridors that littered the ship.  But the harshest criticism and penalties were targeted at the crew, who largely abandoned the passengers.  Thanks to unrest and suspicion amongst the crew, many adopted - wrongly - an 'every-man for himself' motto.

The fire would lead to the collapse of the Ward Line, and for the first time force the threat of fire at sea to be taken more seriously.

So how did the fire start?  The cause has never been conclusively determined, nor has that of the death of Captain Wilmott.  However, the fire was most likely set deliberately - and not by whom Wilmott would have suspected.

Initially hailed as a hero for staying at his post, radio operator George White Rogers eventually emerged as a shady, manipulative character with an intimate knowledge of incendiary devices.  Exposed for his shady dealings and multiple arrests before 1934, his actions after the fire would further increase suspicion.  Years after the disaster, he would attempt to murder a police colleague with an incendiary device.  Later, in 1954, he was convicted of killing a couple who lived near him.  He died in prison in 1957 without ever directly admitting to the fire, but alluded to the disaster several times.

The next time you see a fire door on a cruise ship, or a smoke detector, low-level lighting strip, or non-combustible interior spaces, remember that your safety owes a debt to the people who perished aboard the Morro Castle.  Today's crews are highly trained and strictly regulated, and perform their duties admirably.  Ships are built safer, stronger, and more accessible than ever.

All with one goal: your safety and your enjoyment.